crowe
Newbie
Thanks MrPink. Yea, I'm learning that real quick.Bodywork in all honesty is 95% prep. Good luck on the project!
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Thanks MrPink. Yea, I'm learning that real quick.Bodywork in all honesty is 95% prep. Good luck on the project!
This is a bad move move, raw bodyfiller absorbs moisture and the moisture can wick to the metal underneath and breed rust below the filler. Bare metal if you haven't found out yet from this will flash rust almost immediately. No water until you're ready to wet sand primer if that's going to be how it's prepped. Blow it off wipe it down with a de-wax of some sort. Prep-sol, wax and grease remover etc.Of course, I had to give it a bath too. Long weekend but happy with the progress! I think...
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My truck is more like sympathy for the devilAppreciate the excellent Stones reference...
As long as the police in New York city, (did not) chase you through the park, and in a case of mistaken identity, put a bullet in the trucks heart..My truck is more like sympathy for the devil
My truck is more like sympathy for the devil
This is a bad move move, raw bodyfiller absorbs moisture and the moisture can wick to the metal underneath and breed rust below the filler. Bare metal if you haven't found out yet from this will flash rust almost immediately. No water until you're ready to wet sand primer if that's going to be how it's prepped. Blow it off wipe it down with a de-wax of some sort. Prep-sol, wax and grease remover etc.
Typically with current base/clear systems there is no sanding of the basecoat prior to application of the clear and sanding it is actually detrimental to the adhesion of the clearcoat.
Try and find out what paint they are going to use, then you can look up the TDS sheets for those products. There is a wealth of info on the TDS sheets about recommended prep for the paint that's going to be used