I see a red truck and I want to paint it black ....

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bretcopsey

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I'm going to shave the mirrors off the doors. He says we will weld washers into those holes, and then use short strand fiberglass filler on any welds.

I picked up a red 95 cclb dually in October that will need the same treatment. The previous owner packed the holes with filler only and it has failed.

Great progress so far! I am also considering a color change to black. I don’t have the patience to do it properly as you are, but because I also have red interior I’m thinking I may be able to pull off leaving the jambs alone. Anyway, don’t mean to hijack, keep up the good work!
 

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RCSB_jonny

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I picked up a red 95 cclb dually in October that will need the same treatment. The previous owner packed the holes with filler only and it has failed.

Great progress so far! I am also considering a color change to black. I don’t have the patience to do it properly as you are, but because I also have red interior I’m thinking I may be able to pull off leaving the jambs alone. Anyway, don’t mean to hijack, keep up the good work!
That sure is a red-Chevy neighbourhood!
 

texas tough

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what brand paint are you going with . your going to need at least 2 gallons., dont forget the door jamb fenderwells , ect.. if you dont get everything, it will stand out like a turd in a punchbowl. I recently painted a red truck pearl blue and its amazing how much the change is.
I have heard that WANDA brand paint is very good, but people shy away because its not expensive. Im going to try it when I paint a little beamer soon.
heres some painting tips.. allow a week or so between primer coats to see if there is shrink back..
why 3 coats of primer ? also sealer should go on first,. or a self etching primer first.
I would use a medium coat of primer after the sealer and sand it with 600, then 800, then 1200.. at this point the primer will develop a gloss and you will see all of the imperfections.,
then use body filler to fill in the imperfections.
Prime it again after abrading the 1200, with 320 or 400, then reprime it with high build primer.
wait at least a week, then sand with 600, 800 , 1200.. if all imperfections are gone, lightly abrade it with 400 and shoot the first coat.
dont shoot the first coat over anything smoother than 400. ive seen paint flake off when that is done with 600 grit .
if the paint isnt thick enough to fill 400 scratches, the paint was not mixed right. bring it back to the paint store and tell them to give you some good paint. the only exception to this is candy paint.,
if first coat looks good, do the second coat, then clearcoat.,
if you use a metallic you cannot colorsand the first or second coat. the metalics are all silver under the color and the silver will stand out and look like ****.
if you go with a pearl paint you have to walk the panel . if not you will have blotchy areas .
many painters dont understand that the more coats of anything the more chance of problems.,
it may not come up right away, but it will come up. use just enough needed to get a good finish.
I am a self taught painter and know alot abt painting if u have a question. I also do hot rod pinstriping.
 

Hipster

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I have heard that WANDA brand paint is very good, but people shy away because its not expensive. Im going to try it when I paint a little beamer soon.
I belive Wanda is an Akzo-Nobel product. Not sure about the Wanda but some Sikkens products are polyester resin based instead of acrylic resin based. One would want to use the entire system from primers to topcoats to avoid any adhesion or adverse reactions.
heres some painting tips.. allow a week or so between primer coats to see if there is shrink back..
Yup, most urethane primers will shrink over a weeks time.
why 3 coats of primer ? also sealer should go on first,. or a self etching primer first.
I would use a medium coat of primer after the sealer and sand it with 600, then 800, then 1200.. at this point the primer will develop a gloss and you will see all of the imperfections.,
then use body filler to fill in the imperfections.
Some primers are direct to metal some are not. The TDS sheets need to be looked at to see what's required. Unless sealing with epoxy under the primer no need to seal. The primer should be sealed prior to topcoat and many paint systems require a color coded tinted sealer.

Imperfections after primer should be filled with polyester glazing putty not regular body filler or a lacquer based putty and re-primed.
 
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Hipster

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Prime it again after abrading the 1200, with 320 or 400, then reprime it with high build primer.
wait at least a week, then sand with 600, 800 , 1200.. if all imperfections are gone, lightly abrade it with 400 and shoot the first coat.
No need to finish out the first prime up to 1200 and then go back to 400. You're working your arse off for nothining.

You can wet the primer with wax and grease remover/prep-sol at look at the sheen any point in time. Guidecoating the primer before and during blocking will show all the imperfections, pinholes etc. in 180-220g

I normally do 3 coats with a high build , block with 180-220, do all my touch up work, reprime with a finish primer or reduced version, then jump to blocking with 400 and 500 if metallic, and do a final with softpads and scotch brite. Some high build primers can be mixed as both a high build or a standard primer. I like smoother primer the second go around and too much mil thickness is no good either..

400 can be to course if doing silvers, light blue metallics, golds, etc if doing without a sealer.

Most basecoats these days it's detrimental to adhesion to sand the base prior to clearcoating anyway and some are sensitive to recoat windows and will wrinkle if the time frames are exceeded.
 
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Frank Enstein

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I have used the Summit single stage paint on a few projects an I have been very happy with it.

Look at the Black Starburst Pearl. It's black with multicolor flake. It looks really cool! I shot a custom Harley with it and it looked good in the shop but when we put it in the sun WOW!
 
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