Drilled/slotted or smooth rotors?

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someotherguy

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Come on Richard, I know what a vented rotor is Lol, I was just making the point that they are made and that picture certainly looked like one.
Yeah, mostly the comments were directed at dude that thought he bought non-vented rotors for his truck.

Richard
 

Caman96

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Yeah, mostly the comments were directed at dude that thought he bought non-vented rotors for his truck.

Richard
For the record, I got the smooth EBC rotors. They were free to me from EBC, YellowStuff pads too, but I think I’ll be putting Raysbestos Element3 in when rotors go in.
 

df2x4

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For pads, I like EBC greenstuff tho if I towed more often, I would probably go with their orange stuff pads.

I haven't looked into anything but their Yellowstuff pads specifically, but you may want to check the DOT edge codes on the EBC pads before spending any more money on them. I bought some of their Yellowstuff pads for my Suburban a while back and discovered that their edge code was only EE, meaning that their friction material is no more aggressive than cheap parts store junk. The Raybestos EHT369H I mentioned earlier in this thread are the most aggressive factory sized pads I'm aware of for these trucks, they're now HH rated.

More info on this stuff here:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-worth-it.47903/
 

Paul 97 tahoe

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I think drilled and slotted rotors gives you way better braking, and better brake "feel" too. I have run them on many cars and trucks myself. The only drawback I have found is you will go through brake pads faster, but to me that's a small price to pay to have way better braking. As far as pads go you can't go wrong with Akebono's. Semi-metallic ones usually grab better then ceramic ones do but they will eat up your rotors even faster, and have a lot more brake dust mess too. I usually go with ceramics or ceramic-kevlar hybrids and drilled and slotted rotors on my vehicles. My 2 cents worth. Hope it helps.
 

Pinger

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Some race brakes are carbon, but certainly not all.
True, but they would be if they weren't so expensive - for the weight saving alone. I picked up a rotor for a train (railroad) wagon and how light it was for its bulk was eye opening. Bulkier than a JB7 disc on my C2500, it could be easily be picked up with one hand. I knew better than ask the price...
 

0xDEADBEEF

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If drilled and/or slotted rotors aren't beneficial and are potentially more dangerous, why do OEMs put them on performance cars?

They aren't dangerous in street use. It's what the market thinks is better and they can charge more for them.

Every set of drilled rotors I tracked cracked through the holes all the way to the outside of the rotor. It took me 2 sets before I wised up. I've trashed a lot of smooth rotors too, but never had one crack like that.
 

618 Syndicate

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Perceived value.

They aren't dangerous in street use. It's what the market thinks is better and they can charge more for them.

Every set of drilled rotors I tracked cracked through the holes all the way to the outside of the rotor. It took me 2 sets before I wised up. I've trashed a lot of smooth rotors too, but never had one crack like that.
Even on high-end cars? I'm spending 200k+ on a car (well, I'm not, but you know what I'm saying) and you're saying that the brakes are a certain way because I will pay more for a look vs. performance? Not disagreeing, just trying to understand. Surely I'm paying for performance?
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Even on high-end cars? I'm spending 200k+ on a car (well, I'm not, but you know what I'm saying) and you're saying that the brakes are a certain way because I will pay more for a look vs. performance? Not disagreeing, just trying to understand. Surely I'm paying for performance?

Even more so on those, but on a 200k car these days they will be carbon/ceramic brakes.

99.9% will never track the car so it doesn't even matter.
 
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