Pitman/idler arm replacement

[Justin S]

I've done idler and pitmans without moving anything else. What I usually do with the pitman is heat it up a little before using the puller, and its always popped right off for me. I will be doing another set here in a couple days. Here's why!

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[Jrgunn5150]

4x4's have a diff in the way though, it requires more effort.

 

[Justin S]

ah, most have been on 2wds, I did do one on my gmt800 4x4 and didn't have to move it on that one either.

 

[Aparke4]

old thread but a good one... changing out pitman arm and idler arm for the first time and also much needed for my k2500 with 260k miles! I did TREs's and upgraded rag joint to the flaming river u joint but I think my box is the overall culprit as i have a good amount of play in steering wheel.

I went with pro forged parts from rock auto for pitman arm and idler arm plus added the moog extended grease line. rancho steering stabilizer going on as well as stock one is totally dead.

here is the quote i got from red head... going to get the hydro assist done with 18:1 ratio for my 35's and never worry about steering again!:

"Thanks for reaching out to us! We would be happy to help with a rebuild on your gearbox. We can rebuild yours if you would like to send it in, or you can purchase an already rebuilt gear from us off the shelf, and then send your gear back as the core. The price winds up being the same in the end doing it either way.


If you send your gear in, I would recommend having us rebuild yours as an 18:1 ratio (approx.. 4 turns lock-to-lock). The slower ratio will give you more leverage in turning those larger tires. The stock ratio for this gear is 15:1 (approx.. 3 turns), which is probably what you have now. Having us port the gear box for the hydraulic assist is also something that we would recommend.


The cost for us to rebuild your gear would be $296 + $110 for the porting + shipping to get it back to you. Turnaround time is 2-3 business days in house.


If you wanted to order one already rebuilt, you would want to order our part# 2864S M/H (18:1 Ratio) and select “Yes Please” for “Include Pre-Tapped Ports & Plugs for Hydraulic Steering Assist”. The cost for the gear and the porting are the same as rebuilding your unit; however, there would be an additional core deposit of $150 charged up front, which is refundable once we get your old unit back as the core.


Part # 2864S M/H (18:1 Ratio)

Gear/Rebuild Cost - $296

Porting - $110

Core Charge - $150

Shipping Est. - $70 (includes a return label to send your core back)



Our rebuild process is one of the best in the industry and we take pride in returning gears to customers that are better than new! If you have any questions about the pricing above or our rebuild process please let me know!



Thank you!"

 

[Aparke4]

Just wanted to follow up on the Rancho Steering Stabilizer for the K2500: RS5401... it "fits" but the frame side mount (frame/ crossmember side) did not come with the right sized sleeve so i punched out the old bushing sleeve on the stock unit and it fit perfectly. Other option is to drill stock mount out for slightly larger hardware but being a cali truck, all hardware looked great (sometime oil leaks work in your benefit!) and it installed just like the stock unit in the stock locations. Center link stud fit like/ as stock. Old steering stabilizer was shot in one direction and steering is definitely more controlled/ less slop (I have 35's which is why I went with larger Rancho unit). With C-19 going on, truck is getting love in the evenings so idler arm and pitman arm going on today... and might even place order for red head box? why not- give the old girl some love.

 

[Aparke4]

Sooo I had the aweful experience with the pitman arm and idler arm/ bracket... WOW. 10 hours in and I am waiting for a 34 and a 1 5/16 wrench for pitman arm. The crossmember in the middle of the K series is just awesome as in aweful!! Heat, PB blaster and lot fo pressure over time with a 3 lb sledge- and its a cali car! These have been on here forever. Had to order a new center link and inner tie rods b/c of the heat. Anyways... wow what a pain!