'97 Steering Gearbox Replacement Guidance

[rockien]

Unless the parts are relatively new I would replace the pitman arm and the idler arm. I replaced mine years ago, but still had some play in the steering. I drove it that way for 100,000 miles. I finally adjusted the box and that truck has never drove this good since it was (almost new) to me. I adjusted the over-center preload about 3/8 of a turn, and that's all it took. Since your inspector says that it's definitively the gearbox, I would try fixing instead of replacing. Several other of my steering components have been replaced over the years to fix worn out components, but it always had more slop than it should have. I had power steering leaks and finally replaced all of the hoses which fixed the leaks. Those crimped hoses just start leaking eventually. It will be interesting to see what you find that may have some wear & slop.

 

[crowfather]

I followed the procedure in the service manual and I see a very small amount of fluid at the steering shaft input side of the gear box (H in the diagram). However, so fluid elsewhere. If I am going to replace the seal, like the manual suggests, I might as well do a rebuild since I will be in there correct?

Related, the rag joint looks new as I can clearly see paint still on it and the rubber looks fresh. Same for the pitman and idler arms. The hoses also look new. This truck had a crate motor and rebuilt trans put in 25k ago so I am not surprised much of the stuff around it is replaced as well.

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[east302]

One way to tell if it’s been replaced is the original rag joint has rivets while the common Lares replacement will have nuts and bolts. I’d probably just rebuild the gearbox since it’ll be out.

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[crowfather]

Hard to tell on the rivets. The sleeve that cover the rag joint wont move up far enough to be sure. When I take out the box I will see it and I can order if necessary.

Anybody know if the rebuild kits on rockauto are any good?

 

[crowfather]

So the steering shaft was replaced and came with a new rag joint. So rivets = yes, but still new. Splines look good here.

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[crowfather]

Able to get the gearbox out. Looks original, 83 box. Splines look ok as well. I ordered the rebuild/seal kit so I am going to clean up the casing while I wait for it to arrive. Hoses look original as well so I will replace those too. Pitman arm is confirmed new. You can kinda see from the photos. Cotter pin and castle nut is "like new", came apart easily.

The PS fluid that came out was distinctly orange! Definitely not red/ATF, but I haven't seen an orange colored fluid before. Anybody know what it is?

 

[east302]

It’s a dorman steering shaft so someone must have been chasing sloppy steering before you. The parts that they import from overseas are really hit or miss (and that’s me trying to put it nicely) so maybe keep that in mind.

I usually just use the yellow bottle Prestone PS fluid which is clear or maybe amber.

Does your pump still have the EVO sensor on it?

 

[crowfather]

It’s a dorman steering shaft so someone must have been chasing sloppy steering before you. The parts that they import from overseas are really hit or miss (and that’s me trying to put it nicely) so maybe keep that in mind.

I usually just use the yellow bottle Prestone PS fluid which is clear or maybe amber.

Does your pump still have the EVO sensor on it?

I am unfamiliar with the EVO sensor, so I don't know where to look. I watched a video on how it works. Can a bad sensor cause slop?

 

[east302]

Usually a bad sensor (on the steering column) can make the steering suddenly slip as though you hit a patch of ice and then return to normal. The EVO control valve on the back of the pump is a potential leak point. If you have a wire connected at the PS line, then it’s still installed. GM makes a bypass kit to delete it as the pump component is discontinued. The wire is then left disconnected and tied off somewhere.

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[crowfather]

I'll take a look when I get back under there today.