'97 Steering Gearbox Replacement Guidance

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crowfather

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I had to get my '97 K1500 (223k miles) inspected for registration (Maryland). They dinged it on pulling to the right (which I don't feel), along with too much slop in the steering and a PS leak from the gearbox.

I am going to do this repair myself, but I have not done a steering gearbox on any vehicle before, so I wanted some feedback on the job generally before digging into it. Do I need to replace the pitman arm along with the gearbox, or will it unbolt and re-bolt without damaging the ball joint on there? Should I flush the PS fluid during the process? If so, how difficult is that job? Is there any other component I should change while I am in there?

Thanks for the insight.
 

east302

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Check YouTube for videos, but I’d replace the pitman arm and flush the system.

Skip any parts store reman gearbox. Odds are high that your old one would work better. Redhead and Bluetop are two that are commonly used with decent results.
 

Caman96

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Check this one out too.
 

east302

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Have you used one of those? For a new box assembled in the U.S., it sounds promising.
 

Caman96

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Have you used one of those? For a new box assembled in the U.S., it sounds promising.
No I haven’t, but a couple members on the forum are installing them. Reveiws to come.
 

crowfather

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Thanks for the quick replies. I will check out the link/parts. I typically order from rockauto. I watched some youtube already and it seems straightforward enough.
 

crowfather

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So I've done my first night of reading. I might just replace the rag joint first since that seems to be a large source of slop in these systems. I don't really trust the inspector saying that it's definitively the gearbox, considering the same shop provides a quote to fix it.

If that fixes the slop I might just hope the leak is from a line that can be replaced. Additionally, would it be worthwhile to try adjusting the box myself and reinstalling rather than replacing it? If a seal on the box leaks I might be sol.

Redhead and bluetop seem to have mixed reviews. Redhead quality gets called into question but others love them. Both have complaints about getting your core deposit back.

I'm wary or Borgeson since they don't offer a stock 15:1 option. Several people said that the quick turn is too sensitive for the k-series or lifted vehicles. Besides I like the way it turns now.

Also, I've only seen one comment on rock auto available brands Lares and Edelmann. They both offer a lifetime warranty at similar price point to redhead and bluetop.

This is all my steam of consciousness so far.
 

fancyTBI

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Have you used one of those? For a new box assembled in the U.S., it sounds promising.
Mine is installed in my build thread. Have yet to test it. I will give a review once I’ve put some miles on it.
 

fancyTBI

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So I've done my first night of reading. I might just replace the rag joint first since that seems to be a large source of slop in these systems. I don't really trust the inspector saying that it's definitively the gearbox, considering the same shop provides a quote to fix it.

If that fixes the slop I might just hope the leak is from a line that can be replaced. Additionally, would it be worthwhile to try adjusting the box myself and reinstalling rather than replacing it? If a seal on the box leaks I might be sol.

Redhead and bluetop seem to have mixed reviews. Redhead quality gets called into question but others love them. Both have complaints about getting your core deposit back.

I'm wary or Borgeson since they don't offer a stock 15:1 option. Several people said that the quick turn is too sensitive for the k-series or lifted vehicles. Besides I like the way it turns now.

Also, I've only seen one comment on rock auto available brands Lares and Edelmann. They both offer a lifetime warranty at similar price point to redhead and bluetop.

This is all my steam of consciousness so far.
I would start with an adjustment the proper way like you mentioned - taking it out of the truck. Then reinstalling with either a new steering shaft with or without the rag joint and seeing how it performs. With this route you are only out your time and a fraction of the cost of a new box. If you feel up to it you could always rebuild it; you’d be down a steering box for as long as it takes you to rebuild it.
 
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