New guy, just want to see some static drops

[bobby v]

With new "20' Rollers" as of last week, tires 255/35/20 frt 285/35/20 rear, about as big as you can go withour serious mods
Bobby V

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[RoJo2]

Picked up some factory 20’s last Friday and got some tires put on today... now all I got to do is the actual 6 lug conversion! Not the prettiest things but the price was right.

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[sewlow]

With new "20' Rollers" as of last week, tires 255/35/20 frt 285/35/20 rear, about as big as you can go withour serious mods
Bobby V

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How low?

 

[STATIK_LOW]

Picked up some factory 20’s last Friday and got some tires put on today... now all I got to do is the actual 6 lug conversion! Not the prettiest things but the price was right.

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Nice! I’ve been wanting to 6 lug swap for awhile now..that’s gonna open up wheel options Like crazy! 6 lug wheels can be found really cheap Not to mention wheel trades from an ocean of willing participants while us 5 lug guys have limited options & gotta hand over good money for nice wheels

 

[RoJo2]

Nice! I’ve been wanting to 6 lug swap for awhile now..that’s gonna open up wheel options Like crazy! 6 lug wheels can be found really cheap Not to mention wheel trades from an ocean of willing participants while us 5 lug guys have limited options & gotta hand over good money for nice wheels

Yeah I found a good deal for these- $250 for the wheels. They aren’t my first choice... or probably my 2nd, 3rd, or 4th either, but they look better than I expected and they are factory GM wheels. I probably over paid for tires yesterday so I’ve got just about $530 total in the combo. Most of the more friendly priced factory stuff you see out there, people want $1000 or so for a decent set of wheels and tires... and the tires won’t fit the OBS. Hell I’ve seen people try and get $500-$1000 for some factory 18” wheels without tires.
The biggest thing I’ve found in prepping for the conversion is that you have to change all the U-bolts if you’re not using the ones from the donor. And because Belltech doesn’t sell just the hardware for a flip kit... I had to buy a second flip kit. Had to buy the rear sway bar specific to the 14 bolt too.
I’ve got about another $1250 in parts to buy (Truetrac, Caltracs, DJM spindles) before I jump on the swap... but it’s nice to know I won’t be dependent on finding some wheels in a hurry when the time comes.


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[bobby v]

Rojo: If those are the tries you are using you might have clearance probs front, they look really tall. How wide are the rims? Mine are 9" in the front and I had to roll the fenders as they rubbed, back is tight but OK and they are 20X10 with 285/35 tires
Fronts are 255/35/20 and as you can see its close, hence fenders got rolled and all OK now

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[bobby v]

How low?

Im guessing here because it was dropped some when I got it and now its 3" lower in the rear. Id estimate 8" now and right where I want it, it has been flipped, 1" blocks and 2" shackles.
Bobby V

 

[Seanthemechanic]

Picked up some factory 20’s last Friday and got some tires put on today... now all I got to do is the actual 6 lug conversion! Not the prettiest things but the price was right.

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I dig em! They look good on that truck. You got me interested in a 6 lug conversion but I already have 20’s on my truck haha


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[RoJo2]

Rojo: If those are the tries you are using you might have clearance probs front, they look really tall. How wide are the rims? Mine are 9" in the front and I had to roll the fenders as they rubbed, back is tight but OK and they are 20X10 with 285/35 tires
Fronts are 255/35/20 and as you can see its close, hence fenders got rolled and all OK now

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The new setup is 245/50/r20 square vs the 235/70/r15 current setup. Overall measurements put the 20” setup at .7” taller total and .3” wider total. The wheels are 8.5” wide. Fenders are already rolled up front. I have some concern up front which is the reason I’m switching from Belltech to DJM spindles. Currently I only rub on the underside of the inner fender when my front suspension compresses quite a bit at speed. Next time I pull the front apart, I’m gonna put cut factory springs in there (vs current lowering springs) to see if it helps. If not, I’ll buy some beefier aftermarket springs to cut and potentially a shorter front tire.


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[RoJo2]

Im guessing here because it was dropped some when I got it and now its 3" lower in the rear. Id estimate 8" now and right where I want it, it has been flipped, 1" blocks and 2" shackles.
Bobby V

Based on your valence height from the ground and your tire size... I’d guess you were running 5” up front. If it’s still the factory lower control arm, it’s most likely a 2” spindle and 3” from the springs. For the rear... the flip alone is 6” so with the additional 3” you added, it’s probably closer to 9” total.

FWIW (and it’s not much)... if it were mine, I’d get rid of the 1” block. It may sit “level” but because so much of the rear tire tucks and none of the front tire tucks... kinda looks like your boat riding standing still.


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