eBay 2” drop spindles vs bell tech or djm
- Thread starter A97obs
- Start date
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That’s what’s on my truck. Powder coating is garbage but otherwise they’re great.
There may be others but IHC is the only other I can think of.
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You can probably run the stock upper but there’s probably a geometry difference
I pulled the part numbers from DJMs website and ordered from summit.
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I Guess @95burban would b the best one to vouch for this answer even tho it’ seems to be a misconstrued info on djms site
So the djm 3” drop arm set will work and are “Also” for the 92-99 suburban regardless of their listing saying 88-98 Silverado/ sierra .
When I chose the fitment chart it said won’t fit suburban / but that’s gotta be just misinformation on there site AFAIK all 88-98 or 92-99 gmt400 2wd control arms should be the same regard less of pickup or suv
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I definitely would run new upper and lowers matching it makes sense ….. Although Djms website fitment chart if you noticed mentions fitment only for 88-98 Silverado/ Sierra , which can’t be true afaik all gmt400 2wd Chassis used the same upper and lower control arms wether suv or pickup in the
You can probably run the stock upper but there’s probably a geometry difference
88-98 year trucks or 92-99 suburban
Same!! So I wasn’t sure if that’s something to ignore
I don’t have any reason to believe the 92-99 suburban front suspension is any different than any other 2wd gmt400.
Rockauto lists all the same control arm part numbers for the same year c1500 and c1500 suburban
The rear frame is definitely unique to the suburban but I think you know that lol
Rockauto lists all the same control arm part numbers for the same year c1500 and c1500 suburban
The rear frame is definitely unique to the suburban but I think you know that lol
I Have a good idea what I need to do at this point going forward!
One last question regarding the cam bolt knockouts and installation of new or original cam bolts when doing Uca’s.
This Would be the first time installing control arms but the importance specifically with the uppers it’s noted mentioned too 100% knock out the cam tabs prior to installing new Uca’s. I’ assume this is for ability to get the camber adjusted at a shop down the line.
Is there a rule of thumb generally on making sure to mark where each cam bolt was rotated from factory before removing them !
Ex: making notches or scribing in alignment marks on each
“cam bolt” and “ Uca perch” that way when installing them they are already 98% back where they need to be ?
My Example: Before anything make some type of alignment mark prior to removing cam bolts ?
Knocking out tabs as shown below
Alternatively this Might be a dumb question but What would be the difference if you just left them cam knockouts in place and put the New Uca’s and bolts back in same position wouldn’t that give you a Precise factory alignment from the get go ?
One last question regarding the cam bolt knockouts and installation of new or original cam bolts when doing Uca’s.
This Would be the first time installing control arms but the importance specifically with the uppers it’s noted mentioned too 100% knock out the cam tabs prior to installing new Uca’s. I’ assume this is for ability to get the camber adjusted at a shop down the line.
Is there a rule of thumb generally on making sure to mark where each cam bolt was rotated from factory before removing them !
Ex: making notches or scribing in alignment marks on each
“cam bolt” and “ Uca perch” that way when installing them they are already 98% back where they need to be ?
My Example: Before anything make some type of alignment mark prior to removing cam bolts ?
You must be registered for see images attach
Knocking out tabs as shown below
You must be registered for see images attach
Alternatively this Might be a dumb question but What would be the difference if you just left them cam knockouts in place and put the New Uca’s and bolts back in same position wouldn’t that give you a Precise factory alignment from the get go ?
You must be registered for see images attach
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