Fuel Pump and Sending Unit...HELP!!!

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ROCKSTAR

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Hello everyone,
So I believe I need to replace my fuel pump. It takes a bit to start up (no problems cranking), and its a brand new engine. Its less than 10k miles, I ended up doing a new engine replacement. Anyways, for my expertise and knowledge; I will attempt to do this by myself. I might be able to get help from brother in law but don't know for sure. ANYWAYS, I'm not sure if I have I got the right fuel pump for my truck, but Amazon says so. Could you check this out? Also, any advice on how to tackle some issues I might run into. And I'm thinking of replacing the hoses/pipes for the fuel. I'm the type of person who likes to do multiple replacements where I have to take big pieces/ complex pieces off. Because I do not want to go back under there for a while. Also, looking for help understanding how difficult this will be. Any of your help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thank you! ******* 1998 Chevy K3500 7.4L 454 Vortex; 4WD; Crew Cab; Silverado Trim
Correct Fuel Pump?
Fuel Line?
Fuel Filter?
 

someotherguy

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Haven't looked closely at the fuel line or filter but I can tell you right now I would never, ever use some no-name fuel pump in any vehicle. Especially from amazon with the randomly-generated name "BDFHYK BDFHYK" it's gotta be absolutely lowest grade chinesium white box junk.

You'll want GM / AC Delco or Delphi only, and here's where it gets tricky. On the late Vortec stuff, there's a code on top of your OEM sender you should be matching to the replacement. Example:

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Before assuming you need to replace the pump assembly though, you should test fuel pressure. A hard start on a 7.4 Vortec could easily be leaking injectors, failed fuel pressure regulator, timing not set correctly (takes a scan tool) ... etc. etc.

The "plastic trash can" pump assembly your truck uses is not prone to the line inside the tank getting pinholed like the old style pump/sender setup that uses a short piece of rubber line from the pump to the hard line on the sender. That old style can develop long crank times due to difficulty building pressure because that hose fails. OTOH, your plastic all-in-one style sender has a relatively sturdier plastic accordion type Silly Straw hose that attaches the pump to the line; haven't seen one of those pinhole or crack yet.

*edited to include GM as I'd forgotten you can still get "GM Genuine" brand for these

Richard
 
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movietvet

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Like @someotherguy said, stay away from Amazon for the fuel pump. I use RA with no problems. You can use Delphi or Genuine GM and knowing your RPO codes will be key to getting the correct fuel pump. One of the options even wanted the wheelbase length:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+&+housing+assembly,10147

Hell, while you are in there, go for it all:





 
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