Brake drums 10 inch

[HotWheelsBurban]

I've heard the 4x4 ones did, but obviously those wouldn't have 5 lug wheels and drums....

 

[Xxl2]

Thanks on the 2wd bub it bas 11s with 5 bolt thanks

 

[Schurkey]

Thanks on the 2wd bub it bas 11s with 5 bolt thanks

Unless the aftermarket has discontinued those drums, a brake upgrade should be fairly easy.

Grab the 11.x backing plates and brake "guts" from a Treasure Yard vehicle, buy new 5-lug drums.

Or just get the backing plates, and buy everything else at the parts-store.

Yes, swapping the entire axle to a 14-bolt 9.5" ring gear job would be even better.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Thanks on the 2wd bub it bas 11s with 5 bolt thanks

Sure enough, search for

RAYBESTOS 9530R
Rear; w/ 11.15" X 2.75" Brakes 5-lug

 

[Schurkey]

RAYBESTOS 9530R

www.amazon.com/Raybestos-9530R-Professional-Grade-Brake/dp/B000IYMNG2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1DT8FBMLU8KG7

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That changes everything.

IF (big IF) you had a 6-lug wheel, I'd tell you that as far as I'm concerned, those 254mm (10 inch) Leading/Trailing shoe brakes aren't worth fixing. Find a decent Treasure Yard, and grab the 11.x backing plates, wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, etc. Remove 254mm Leading/Trailing shoe brakes, install 11.x" Duo-Servo brakes using new parts as required. Instant upgrade in brake power, with minimal downside, not much expense, and the Duo-Servo design actually adjusts properly, for long-term satisfaction.

But things are more complex on the 5-lug trucks. I guess it's basically impossible to find the equivalent 5-lug drums. At any rate, I've never looked into that. You may be "stuck" dealing with the horrible 254mm Leading/Trailing shoe brakes.

Now that I know drums are readily available, and not horribly expensive--the 254mm Leading/Trailing shoe drums can hit the scrap pile.

If you can find an entire 9.5" ring gear axle assembly in good condition with the right gear ratio, width, etc. and 5-lug axles...take the whole works.

 

[Xxl2]

I ended up just rebuilding my 10s they do okay stopping . Pedel dose feel better a bit on the soft side but not bad. Also i did bleed the rear brakes one side really gushed out the other side no as much gushed. Could that indicat a issue with that cylinder?

 

[Schurkey]

Or a partially-plugged bleeder screw. Ultra-common.

Did you bleed the ABS with a scan tool?

 

[Xxl2]

i ll try my scan tool to bleed them After i do them i know i have to bleed them. Do i have to bleed the fronts if i dont have issues with those. My issue is i have to replace a caliper i broke a bleed screww off in a caliper working fine now but now i cant bleeed them

 

[Schurkey]

If there's air trapped in the ABS, it could be in either front circuit (L or R) or in the rear circuit; or in any combination. You have no way to know where the air is until you see it bubble out of the bleeder screw.

So, yeah, you need to bleed both front calipers after using the scan tool to auto-bleed the ABS module. Ideally, you'd bleed both rear brakes afterwards, too. SOMETIMES you can get by with just bleeding one rear side...but again you don't know for sure until you've bled both sides. All the "factory" procedures have you bleed all four corners.

 

[Xxl2]

Thanks i was afraid of that might just have to get it a new caliper any body have ideas on how to dig a bleed screw out?