Water pump and thermostat

[L31MaxExpress]

The only PITA about the pliers with cable, is that intermittently, the release will stick.

I have had issues trying to just get the working end into where GM wedged the clamps. For example the ends of the pinch clamps on my 97s front heater core were above the hoses, wedged between the hoses and firewall in a 3" wide gap between the firewall and underhood hvac case. If the clamps had faced down would have been much easier to access. I have run into the same issue on the bypass hose on almost all Vortec engines. Cannot get on the dumb things short of removing the clutch fan and alternator brackets.

 

[TylerSteez]

I just replaced the water pump, thermostat, and upper/lower rad hoses a week ago. I used the napa water pump and all is fine.

Break fan bolts loose before serp is off, check all pulleys and idlers for scratchy bearings, remove water pump, clean gasket surfaces, wire wheel bolts if reusing, put thread sealant on bolts, hang gaskets on the bolts poking thru water pump, bolt water pump back on (no RTV needed), reassemble. When changing the lower rad hose, make sure to put the spring from the original hose inside of the replacement hose.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I just replaced the water pump, thermostat, and upper/lower rad hoses a week ago. I used the napa water pump and all is fine.

Break fan bolts loose before serp is off, check all pulleys and idlers for scratchy bearings, remove water pump, clean gasket surfaces, wire wheel bolts if reusing, put thread sealant on bolts, hang gaskets on the bolts poking thru water pump, bolt water pump back on (no RTV needed), reassemble. When changing the lower rad hose, make sure to put the spring from the original hose inside of the replacement hose.

I have never seen a spring in any of the OE lower hoses in this generation of truck. My van had the OE hose when I changed it. My Tahoe also had the OE hose.

 

[454cid]

wire wheel bolts if reusing, put thread sealant on bolts

No need for thread sealant on a Gen VI 454, and I suspect the OP's Gen V is the same. The bolt holes are blind, and don't touch coolant.

 

[454cid]

I have never seen a spring in any of the OE lower hoses in this generation of truck. My van had the OE hose when I changed it. My Tahoe also had the OE hose.

I've changed my lower hose a few times. I think I had a spring originally, and moved it to a new hose. Then the next time, I think it had become to rusty to remove, but the new hose already had a spring??? I don't recall for sure anymore. I think I have an ACDelco hose, currently. What I didn't replace, but do have in my parts stash, is the giant corrugated flex loom. I used to move the original from hose to hose, and it eventually got brittle.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I have had issues trying to just get the working end into where GM wedged the clamps. For example the ends of the pinch clamps on my 97s front heater core were above the hoses, wedged between the hoses and firewall in a 3" wide gap between the firewall and underhood hvac case. If the clamps had faced down would have been much easier to access. I have run into the same issue on the bypass hose on almost all Vortec engines. Cannot get on the dumb things short of removing the clutch fan and alternator brackets.

There's a special pair of cable operated pliers, to squeeze those factory clamps in tight spaces. I have a pair, that my cousin gave me in '19 when I did the water pump and hoses on Burb. He knew I needed them, and he had a pair at work, and his truck is new enough he didn't need a pair at home.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

There's a special pair of cable operated pliers, to squeeze those factory clamps in tight spaces. I have a pair, that my cousin gave me in '19 when I did the water pump and hoses on Burb. He knew I needed them, and he had a pair at work, and his truck is new enough he didn't need a pair at home.

I have a pair of them by Lisle. Still lacked the room to easily get at the clamps.

 

[JTMiller13]

I just replaced the water pump, thermostat, and upper/lower rad hoses a week ago. I used the napa water pump and all is fine.

Break fan bolts loose before serp is off, check all pulleys and idlers for scratchy bearings, remove water pump, clean gasket surfaces, wire wheel bolts if reusing, put thread sealant on bolts, hang gaskets on the bolts poking thru water pump, bolt water pump back on (no RTV needed), reassemble. When changing the lower rad hose, make sure to put the spring from the original hose inside of the replacement hose.

Thank you, lots of SPECIAL comments here on clamps but this read is very helpful

 

[TylerSteez]

No need for thread sealant on a Gen VI 454, and I suspect the OP's Gen V is the same. The bolt holes are blind, and don't touch coolant.

ah i see, i’m used to sbc’s lol

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I have a pair of them by Lisle. Still lacked the room to easily get at the clamps.

Those are the ONLY way I got to the bypass hose clamps between the T stat housing and the alternator.