Water pump and thermostat

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movietvet

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movietvet

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It is a straight forward replacement. Look at you tube for 2-3 videos and check out the steps. Luckily you don't have to deal with a fan clutch tool to take it apart. Break the nuts loose holding the fan clutch and pulley together before you remove the belt. easier to break loose that way and to do a final tighten too.
 

454cid

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I bought a Chinese Gates pump, and the shaft seal pooped out in a year or two. It got replaced by an Airtex, that seems to be doing ok. I don't drive the truck very much anymore, Though. If I were to try another cheap waterpump it would be a GMB since they are a Japanese OEM. I have a genuine GM casting to send out for rebuild, at some point. Unfortunately, I don't have my original casting. I kept it for awhile, but got tired of having it under foot, and got rid of it.

Before spending big bucks on a new GM pump, I'd have to be sure it was US made, and not a Chinese import.

Make sure the block is clean. I've used various sizes of wire wheels to do that. I've coated the gaskets with a spray on sealer, but I think only to the pump side. I don't really want the gaskets glued down to the block as that would make them harder to remove next time. I've re-used the original bolts after cleaning them, but I may use stainless steel studs next time. They can be had on ebay. I think I put Loctite on the bolts.

For a thermostat, I think I have a Stant. Stant has been purchased by Motorad in the mean-time, so Stant branded thermostats are not as common... on Rockauto at least. I'd probably buy a Motorad as I've used them in other vehicles. I do have a GM thermostat in my parts stash, should I need it.

Get some new Gates hoses if yours are older. I reccomend keeping the OEM constant tension band clamps. I'm not sure of they're availble from GM anymore.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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I reccomend keeping the OEM constant tension band clamps. I'm not sure of they're availble from GM anymore.

This ^^^ No retightening / no leaking… much better than worm drive clamps.

Keep / reuse the OE clamps, or find replacements if they’ve been previously discarded.

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L31MaxExpress

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This ^^^ No retightening / no leaking… much better than worm drive clamps.

Keep / reuse the OE clamps, or find replacements if they’ve been previously discarded.
I have had nothing but bad luck with the OEM clamps, they always leak and are a pain to install and remove. I use Gates solid surface clamps designed for silicone hoses they work great on rubber hoses as well. I have also used the Gates Power Grip a few times. Once those are in place there is no removing or repositioning of the hoses without cutting the clamps. The power grip clamps are probably the easiest clamps to use out there. Slide the right size on, heat it up with a heat gun and they are good to go. The power grip clamps are like heat shrink on steroids.
 
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