To reiterate and sound like the proverbial broken record, no bushing made of kryptonite by Bavarian Elves in the zero gravity of deep space will address the issue if the uppermost hole in the uppermost hinge is wallowed out. This is the hole where there is a tight interference fit.
Oh, the door will be fine for a month or even six, but it'll sag sooner than later. Guys who are declaring success immediately after installing new pins/bushings are being premature.......
Over the past 7-8 years I have tried most of the popular bushings on the drivers side of my 96, including GM bushings, to no avail. When I spot welded the top pin to the top hole it has--so far--been a long term fix (that's a caveat in case no one noticed).
I have a couple sets of over sized bushings (National brand, I think), but I'm glad I didn't go through the agony of boring out the pin holes to install them because it appears it would have been another futile effort on my part to resolve the problem.
I've replaced the pins, bushings, and/or roller pins on all four doors of my 96 and 97 K1500's (on the drivers side of my 96, at least 4 times, maybe five), I may not be an expert but I've got experience to go along with the learning curve......
Can you post a pic of where and how you spot welded it?
1995 Z71 standard cab stepside
Swapping to 1996 Vortec OBD II