Cracked Rear Main Seal Housing installing oil pan stud ....

[TAF2003]

I was installing a new Felpro oil pan gasket on my 1996 5.7 Yukon and when I installed the rear stud into the Rear Main Seal housing, I cracked the housing where the stud goes on the driver side.

I was following my Chilton guide which said to use 18 ft-lbs for oil pan nuts and bolts.... It felt like too much torque and then it got really easy....

dang it!

I'm attempting to use JB Weld to hold the broken section on to the stud. I'm hoping it'll hold the oil pan nut properly...

After the JB Weld cures, I thought I might add a thin layer of Permatex gasket maker between the gasket and housing/block around the stud location. Reassemble and hope it doesn't leak...


I'm looking for a replacement housing and can't quite find a good part number.
Rockauto doesn't sell the housing.
Summit Racing has something that appears is correct, but the comment section has me questioning it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-14088556


I'm not looking forward to replacing the real main seal housing in my driveway without a transmission jack....


I've already found references that the torque on that stud should be 106 in-lbs. Curse you Chilton!


Any words of encouragement or suggestions???

Here's the damage:

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thx,
andy

 

[Frank Enstein]

It is the right one. Don't forget the dowel and hardware if needed.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'd be nabbing one from a junkyard instead of trying to mend that one.

You need to at least pull that part out and fix it correctly, which will require a new gasket. The circled misalignment is a no-go for me.

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[TAF2003]

Thanks everyone.

In an attempt to help someone else who stumbles across this post, here's the torque specs from a 1998 5.0/5.7:
Oil Pan studs: 53 lb-in
Oil Pan bolts: 106 lb-in
Oil pan corner nuts: 18 lb-ft

I attached the section from the manual on this site.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

I'd be nabbing one from a junkyard instead of trying to mend that one.

You need to at least pull that part out and fix it correctly, which will require a new gasket. The circled misalignment is a no-go for me.

You must be registered for see images attach

The circled misalignment is not an issue as that is on the out side of the sealing area

 

[Erik the Awful]

Yeah, but it also tells me the epoxy is doing more work than it needs to. If you get those pieces aligned correctly, the edges of the break help hold it together, and the epoxy works like glue. Right now it's working like filler. Also note there's no epoxy in the crack on the block side of that piece.

 

[nicksuspect]

Thanks everyone.

In an attempt to help someone else who stumbles across this post, here's the torque specs from a 1998 5.0/5.7:
Oil Pan studs: 53 lb-in
Oil Pan bolts: 106 lb-in
Oil pan corner nuts: 18 lb-ft

I attached the section from the manual on this site.

What if you corner ones are not nuts and are bolts? Is it the same torque spec

 

[Schurkey]

What if you corner ones are not nuts and are bolts? Is it the same torque spec

It's a sign that someone removed and lost the studs, and you should get replacements, plus the nuts. Then use the torque spec for the nuts.

 

[nicksuspect]

It's a sign that someone removed and lost the studs, and you should get replacements, plus the nuts. Then use the torque spec for the nuts.

That's how the engine came they weren't lost. It's a crate engine. They used allen bolts for everything. Even my original engine didn't have studs on the corners it has regular bolts the only one that was stud was the one holding the old cooler line bracket

 

[nicksuspect]

The only reason I ask cuz the manual is confusing it has 2 different torque specs in the same book. And the manual says bolts or studs. I'm assuming my year bolts where used and not studs. But in 1 page it says 18ft and the 2 page is says 15 ft for corner bolts and 106 inch pounds for the rest