10 bolt upgrades ("big" 8.5", 30 spline, w/big axle shafts and big wheel bearings)

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Horntoad

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shovelbill

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I don't understand that. Are you referring to inertial strain/rotational inertia, tending to twist the axle shafts and resist inputs from the gears? Now that I hadn't thought of.
Yes, you got it...also, when going to a larger tire, it really affects braking as well. The blocks can lead to axle wrap and jittery traction. The first lift kit I ever did, back in '80 or so, was a 'box' 2 1/2" Ranch kit. It sucked...after that, I always did all-spring 3" lifts. The Tough Country 'Soft Ride' generic packs aren't horrible, as I've heard from those that have them. They don't last as long as stock or custom, though.
 

shovelbill

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For informational purposes, here are some axle shafts and carrier-bearing-cap-support differential covers I've found that appear to be options for the 30 spline 8.5" 10 bolt

Axle Shafts

Motive 1541
Richmond 1541
USA Standard Gear 1541
Yukon 1541H
Strange 1550
Dutchman 1541H
Alloy USA 1541H
Moser 1541H


Diff Covers (carrier-bearing-cap-support type)

TA Performance
Moser
TrickFlow
LPW Ultra
LPW Ultimate
Proform
My friend put a set of Dutchman's 30 splines in his K5, and they survived the floggin' he gave that rear with 33" BFGs and steel wheels...They're 25% stronger than stock.
 

Supercharged111

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The 11" drums are deeper on the 9.5 than the shjtty wimpy 10" units. Seems to me the flanges would be set back further making this a not bolt in? Assuming the 8.5 uses those same drums on the SUVs. This aversion to a bolt in 9.5 axle is silly IMO.
 

alignman88

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Mine isn’t on the road yet, but I replicated what I have done to 10 bolts in the past with good results.

Eaton TruTrac diff, Moser 30 spline axles, forged pinion yoke, 1350 style U-joints in the new driveshaft, and a TA Performance diff cover with the carrier bearing preload supports. I spent just under $1000 bucks and have confidence it will live forever with about 400 HP to the tire.

The comments about the weight of wheels is legitimate for sure. A good quality forged wheel and quality tire package keeps the unsprung weight lower than cheap cast wheels n cheap tires. The lighter the rotating items are the easier they are to stop and not as hard on everything else.
 

Horntoad

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The 11" drums are deeper on the 9.5 than the shjtty wimpy 10" units. Seems to me the flanges would be set back further making this a not bolt in? Assuming the 8.5 uses those same drums on the SUVs.
Did Limited and and Z56 Tahoes all come with the 14 bolt (they did have the 11" drums)? It was a late night when, without knowing for sure, I just went with it and ordered the 11" drums and backing plates and hoped for the best.

Mine isn’t on the road yet, but I replicated what I have done to 10 bolts in the past with good results.

Eaton TruTrac diff, Moser 30 spline axles, forged pinion yoke, 1350 style U-joints in the new driveshaft, and a TA Performance diff cover with the carrier bearing preload supports. I spent just under $1000 bucks and have confidence it will live forever with about 400 HP to the tire.
I like it! Thanks for the info. Did you keep the 10" drums?
 

Rock Hard Concrete

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Just for informational purposes for those looking for "real world" pricing on a 8.6 10 bolt I just rebuilt in my 2000 Sierra:

TrueTrac: $605

New Motive abs friendly 4.10 gears: $395

New Stock Style non reinforced cover: $35

Installation Labor & new bearings for whole rear end: $1,295

All PLUS TAX

Ended up being around $2,600 OTD. I sourced the truetrac, gears, and cover. Shop supplied the bearings.

This is real world pricing not fantasy lala land pricing. Obviously if you do the work yourself it would be cheaper and the gear set I got were not the cheapest, but supposed to be the best.
 

Supercharged111

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Just for informational purposes for those looking for "real world" pricing on a 8.6 10 bolt I just rebuilt in my 2000 Sierra:

TrueTrac: $605

New Motive abs friendly 4.10 gears: $395

New Stock Style non reinforced cover: $35

Installation Labor & new bearings for whole rear end: $1,295

All PLUS TAX

Ended up being around $2,600 OTD. I sourced the truetrac, gears, and cover. Shop supplied the bearings.

This is real world pricing not fantasy lala land pricing. Obviously if you do the work yourself it would be cheaper and the gear set I got were not the cheapest, but supposed to be the best.

Fukk that, I paid $120 or so for a junkyard 4.10 G80 diff eons ago. That's highway robbery. I think I paid 200-300 in labor last time I had gears set up.
 

Rock Hard Concrete

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Fukk that, I paid $120 or so for a junkyard 4.10 G80 diff eons ago. That's highway robbery. I think I paid 200-300 in labor last time I had gears set up.
Yep. I waited over a year with my truck broken waiting to find a 14bsf but no dice. Only came across a few 14b ff that needed completely rebuilt which would have cost more after it was all said and done. Shops around here (Spokane, Wa) charge a minimum per job and not the actual time spent, unless it goes over the quoted "job time". I was quoted 6 hrs to replace 4 glow plugs in my box truck and I was told I would pay for 6 hrs even if they got them done in 45 minutes. I changed them myself in THREE MINUTES.

Things in the real world are spendy. I wish I could get things done for what other online say they can. Even if I do the work myself, the parts are usually just as spendy as what a whole project cost other people.
 
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