sethel
OBS Enthusiast
I recently purchased a 14 bolt semi float from a '94 K2500 with the six lug pattern and the perhaps infamous G80 limited slip. I believe the 14 bolt differential version of the G80 has less reports of exploding, and some guys think the G80, if used correctly with appropriately sized tires for your axle, is reliable. But I'll be curious to thoughts on that. May upgrade to a Trutrac and 4.10's in the future. But for now I'm only running 33's (295/75R16).
I lucked out with ring gear backlash within 0.010" right at the top end of spec. I did not take apart the internals so I did not check Pinion pre-load. However, Visual inspection of the 3.73 gears looked almost new, with new axle shaft seals so the internals looked recently replaced. Cleaned up and POR15'd the housing and the swap went smoothly. Had to go back to get U-Bolt brackets from the donor as you can't use the 10 bolt u-bolt brackets without shaving them to fit the larger axle shaft, not worth it.
Swaping in went easy, all same dimensional layouts with spring perches and shock absorber mounts. I was able to use my original emergency brake cables, just adjusted the equalizer to give a bit more length (on the driver side along the frame rail). Because these drums are MUCH bigger than the 10 bolt drums, the cables had to reach further across the brake drum from the clip at the shield than they did on the 10 bolts. Easy, but little fussy job. Just replaced the self adjuster screws inside the drum that were seized and the wheel cylinders had stripped bleeder valves. $40 all together and brakes were good.
The drive shaft is where I have an inquiry I get some mixed reviews on. First the 14 Bolts have a larger diameter U joint than the 10 bolts, you need to get the adapter U joint. Link Below:
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60641/10002/-1
That installation was smooth. However, most seem to believe the drive shaft does not need to be replaced with a shorter length despite the length of the diff housing being longer in the 14 Bolt than the 10 Bolt. I have been driving with my original drive shaft but think I hear a secondary bump going over speed bumps, like a delayed thud once the axle is on the other side of the bump. Not sure what it is, but my theory is the upper U joint on the drive shaft is bottoming out at the Transfer case housing at the slip yoke.
Vehicle At rest, and level, you can see the picture below showing I have about 1.5" from the butt of the U joint to the ring around the Transfer Case housing. Does anyone know how much space is required in the slip yoke for adequate axle downward travel? This seems tight, but am I alright without needing a shortened drive shaft?
You must be registered for see images attach
I lucked out with ring gear backlash within 0.010" right at the top end of spec. I did not take apart the internals so I did not check Pinion pre-load. However, Visual inspection of the 3.73 gears looked almost new, with new axle shaft seals so the internals looked recently replaced. Cleaned up and POR15'd the housing and the swap went smoothly. Had to go back to get U-Bolt brackets from the donor as you can't use the 10 bolt u-bolt brackets without shaving them to fit the larger axle shaft, not worth it.
You must be registered for see images attach
Swaping in went easy, all same dimensional layouts with spring perches and shock absorber mounts. I was able to use my original emergency brake cables, just adjusted the equalizer to give a bit more length (on the driver side along the frame rail). Because these drums are MUCH bigger than the 10 bolt drums, the cables had to reach further across the brake drum from the clip at the shield than they did on the 10 bolts. Easy, but little fussy job. Just replaced the self adjuster screws inside the drum that were seized and the wheel cylinders had stripped bleeder valves. $40 all together and brakes were good.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The drive shaft is where I have an inquiry I get some mixed reviews on. First the 14 Bolts have a larger diameter U joint than the 10 bolts, you need to get the adapter U joint. Link Below:
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60641/10002/-1
That installation was smooth. However, most seem to believe the drive shaft does not need to be replaced with a shorter length despite the length of the diff housing being longer in the 14 Bolt than the 10 Bolt. I have been driving with my original drive shaft but think I hear a secondary bump going over speed bumps, like a delayed thud once the axle is on the other side of the bump. Not sure what it is, but my theory is the upper U joint on the drive shaft is bottoming out at the Transfer case housing at the slip yoke.
Vehicle At rest, and level, you can see the picture below showing I have about 1.5" from the butt of the U joint to the ring around the Transfer Case housing. Does anyone know how much space is required in the slip yoke for adequate axle downward travel? This seems tight, but am I alright without needing a shortened drive shaft?
You must be registered for see images attach
