Engine oil

[Schurkey]

Put some CD2 in your engine and see if the tap goes away.

There's more than one kind of "CD-2". Be sure to use the right one.

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CD-2 4105R Stop Leak

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CD2 4111 Oil Detergent

Clearly, he's looking for the detergent, not the stop leak.

Thousands of years ago, they were referred to as "CD-2 red label" (stop leak) and "CD-2 black label." (detergent) There's still red and black on the respective labels.

 

[Schurkey]

All good stuff there Shurkey!

[Elvis Voice] Thankyew, thankyew verra much![/Elvis Voice]

I always say in these threads, if it leaks or burns oil go with the cheapest stuff you can find and change it every 3-5000 miles. If it doesn't leak or burn oil do what Shurkey is doing. Run AMSOIL signature series oil with a filter change in the middle and do a used oil analysis after every oil change to see where your engines health is and if the oil broke down or was still good. 25,000 miles is perfectly fine for that oil

I don't do oil sampling at every oil change. I do it now-and-then, or if I have reason to suspect a problem. For example, when the thermostat failed, and the engine wouldn't get up to temperature, I took an oil sample for analysis, but I was so sure it was going to fail that I just changed the oil then. Yup--the lab said the oil had too much water contamination.

It's been a few years since I've gotten a report on the Trailblazer. There's a container on my kitchen counter ready to get processed; I just need to get around to sending it in.

I'm using Amsoil "XL", one step below the "Signature" grade.

you can and should run Synthetic at extended intervals, if you change it every 3k you are losing all of the benefits of synthetic.

Not "all" the benefits, but it's certainly a waste of money and resources to dump oil at 3K miles (or even at 6K miles most of the time) on an engine with feedback fuel injection and an overdrive transmission.

 

[McSweeney]

[Elvis Voice] Thankyew, thankyew verra much![/Elvis Voice]


I don't do oil sampling at every oil change. I do it now-and-then, or if I have reason to suspect a problem. For example, when the thermostat failed, and the engine wouldn't get up to temperature, I took an oil sample for analysis, but I was so sure it was going to fail that I just changed the oil then. Yup--the lab said the oil had too much water contamination.

It's been a few years since I've gotten a report on the Trailblazer. There's a container on my kitchen counter ready to get processed; I just need to get around to sending it in.

I'm using Amsoil "XL", one step below the "Signature" grade.


Not "all" the benefits, but it's certainly a waste of money and resources to dump oil at 3K miles (or even at 6K miles most of the time) on an engine with feedback fuel injection and an overdrive transmission.

Whats so special about amsoil? And should i not use that napa oil?

also how do i get my oil analyzed

 

[Schurkey]

Whats so special about amsoil? And should i not use that napa oil?

Amsoil was among the first commercially-available synthetic oils. It's always been good stuff. Fairly expensive, though--like pretty-much all specialty products from a small-volume manufacturer.

Short story, they've got three main "grades" of synthetic oil--"good", "better", "best". I use the middle one. They've got "hot-rod" oil with lots of ZDDP. they've got motorcycle oil, transmission fluid, at least two grades of gear lube, air-compressor oil, two-stroke oil...and generally several viscosities of each product. They've branched-out into additives and cooling system products, too. They also sell bypass filters, although all of mine are another brand (Frantz).

https://www.amsoil.com/c/products/1/

I buy NAPA synthetic oil, and ATF (by the case, only when it's on sale) for vehicles that I'm less invested in--stuff with worn engines, lawn mowers, cars owned by my friends that I get "volunteered" to work on, etc.

Far as I know, NAPA oil is produced by Valvoline. Nothing wrong with it.

also how do i get my oil analyzed

Drive to any repair shop that services big Diesel engines--the local Cat dealer, the local John Deere shop, the local Detroit Diesel or Cummins shop--and buy an oil analysis sample kit.

The kit is a sample bottle packaged inside a shipping bottle, with a pre-printed address label for the lab that does the analysis. I bought a case of 12 from the Detroit Diesel place; before that I bought them two or three at a time from the Cat dealer.

Or get them off of Amazon. Search for "Oil Sample Kit". There'll be plenty to choose from. Any listed for Aviation will be more expensive because guys with airplanes have lots of money.

Or just head to NAPA.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL4077

You collect and mail the sample, they mail you a paper report of what they found--generally color-coded so you know right away what's "good" and what's "failed" (if there's any failure.)

I'm thinking they contact you by 'phone if the sample has problems, so you can change oil right away. Otherwise you wait awhile for the report.

 

[df2x4]

also how do i get my oil analyzed

Blackstone Labs is another good option for this.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

[Caman96]

Valvoline Synthetic!

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[red98]

Amsoil was among the first commercially-available synthetic oils. It's always been good stuff. Fairly expensive, though--like pretty-much all specialty products from a small-volume manufacturer.

Short story, they've got three main "grades" of synthetic oil--"good", "better", "best". I use the middle one. They've got "hot-rod" oil with lots of ZDDP. they've got motorcycle oil, transmission fluid, at least two grades of gear lube, air-compressor oil, two-stroke oil...and generally several viscosities of each product. They've branched-out into additives and cooling system products, too. They also sell bypass filters, although all of mine are another brand (Frantz).

https://www.amsoil.com/c/products/1/

I buy NAPA synthetic oil, and ATF (by the case, only when it's on sale) for vehicles that I'm less invested in--stuff with worn engines, lawn mowers, cars owned by my friends that I get "volunteered" to work on, etc.

Far as I know, NAPA oil is produced by Valvoline. Nothing wrong with it.


Drive to any repair shop that services big Diesel engines--the local Cat dealer, the local John Deere shop, the local Detroit Diesel or Cummins shop--and buy an oil analysis sample kit.

The kit is a sample bottle packaged inside a shipping bottle, with a pre-printed address label for the lab that does the analysis. I bought a case of 12 from the Detroit Diesel place; before that I bought them two or three at a time from the Cat dealer.

Or get them off of Amazon. Search for "Oil Sample Kit". There'll be plenty to choose from. Any listed for Aviation will be more expensive because guys with airplanes have lots of money.

Or just head to NAPA.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL4077

You collect and mail the sample, they mail you a paper report of what they found--generally color-coded so you know right away what's "good" and what's "failed" (if there's any failure.)

I'm thinking they contact you by 'phone if the sample has problems, so you can change oil right away. Otherwise you wait awhile for the report.

First time I ever heard of AmsOil was at the dirt track, was watching the modifieds, and there was one new guy with a giant "Powered by AmsOil" (or something like that) sticker on the side, first time I'd ever seen their logo, he drives out and revs it up, shoots a few small fireballs out of the pipes, then on the 2nd lap his engine exploded and the whole front end went up in flames, always thought "not the best ad for AmsOil" LOL.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Whatever oil got you to 202K miles is obviously fine.

Using a thicker oil to cure a tick is not always a good idea, although after 200k miles the bearing clearances have loosened up so you might get away with it.

 

[McSweeney]

Whatever oil got you to 202K miles is obviously fine.

Using a thicker oil to cure a tick is not always a good idea, although after 200k miles the bearing clearances have loosened up so you might get away with it.

Yea im just gunna stick with the 1030, the manual says you can use it so ill just do that. Im not positive whats making the ticking, i thought it was lifters but my gut is telling me that the manifold has a crack somewhere which is causing the tick. I replaced my cat and i heard it after that so i thought maybe it was the gasket so i replaced the flange gasket but it still is ticking so i mustve cracked the manifold somehow

 

[McSweeney]

Also im torn between amsoil and valvoline, honestly i dont really care how long i can go on a synthetic i just want an oil that will lubricate the engine the best with minimal breakdown. From the chart it still definitely looks like amsoil is better but idk valvoline seems like a great choice too