Engine oil

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BNielsen

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Oil discussions are always a dead horse; and it's getting to the point where all that's left of the horse is a greasy spot.

You'll hear everything about anything and how someone's uncle's 3rd door down neighbor's step-cousin had an experience with X-brand oil and that Y-brand oil has been the best thing since sliced bread.

In my experience, Amsoil has been a big game changer for me; I used to run Pennzoil 10W30 in my truck and I always had an issue with oil consumption and a slight clatter. I went to Amsoil Signature Series 10W30 and all of that went away, I run their fuel additives (everyone cries "Snake Oil!" but I've seen 5 or 10 miles more out of a treated tank in my truck) and I'm going to be going from front to rear changing every fluid and filter in the very near future.

@Schurkey, I've been wanting to do a bypass filter on my truck but I can't quite figure out a good location for the filter housing where it'll be out of the way of any possible danger; you said you had one on a K1500 and were planning on one for your K2500?
 

thinger2

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At 202k
Blah thats nothing.
Check it with a mechanical pressure guage.
There is no miracle goop that somehow restores the engine.
******* nonsense.
The only thing that will happen when you pour any kind of Jesus in a bottle into the sump is a momentary and temporary spike in oil pressure and a cold start loss of oil pressure that only picks back up at about 120 or so and doesnt register till about 190.
Goo settles
And that goo magic turns into **** in the pan..
Use Oil, Dont use a Fram filter.
Dont use any magic goo.
Get a Wix or a NAPA gold which is the same thing.
Change the oil, fix the leaks.
If its leaking, its also sucking in dirt and moisture when it cools.
Keep it clean and run it for another 50k
or more.
Maybe 100k
And Im sorry that you got treated like **** for being a new guy and asking a basic but important question.
This aint the ******* ferrari forum.
Warch me get **** for misspelling ferrari.
 
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Schurkey

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@Schurkey, I've been wanting to do a bypass filter on my truck but I can't quite figure out a good location for the filter housing where it'll be out of the way of any possible danger; you said you had one on a K1500 and were planning on one for your K2500?
The '88 K1500 was easy. Bigass open area on left inner fender. I had an oil pan with a threaded boss for an oil level sensor, that I repurposed as an oil return port. I'm using a tee at the oil pressure sensor by the distributor as a supply.

The '97 K2500 will be more difficult. Second battery, ABS controller, and more all live on that left inner fender. I'll maybe return the oil via a modified oil-fill cap.
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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I’ve ran 10-30 regular Valvoline on my 89. Once I as able to get Super Tech oil I switched to that at around 150,000 miles. I use Supertech n all you gas engines. The diesels get Delo 400 but I’m switching to Traveler oil from TSC. That truck currently has 396,000 miles on the original engine. At the time I bough it synthetic was just starting out and really expensive. I did 3k regular oil changes for the first year of ownership but I moved to 5k simply because the oil was just not that dirty at 3k. This was all pre blackstone labs. My diesels was always 5k.
I moved my intervals to 5k if regular oil 7500 if synthetic. (Which is either 2 or 3 months as I daily drive about 140 miles a day. ) the other trucks get once a year changes as o don5 drive them too much 1-3k a year. I use synthetic now because the price is really not much more than regular oil.
 
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