Engine Oil Temperature Sensor

[Supercharged111]

Do you happen to know the size and thread type for those ports on the small block engine oil cooler adapter? Are they 3/8" NPT like the engine oil cooler line ports?

I want to say it was 1/4" NPT, this is the only pic I have.

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Do you already have a gauge? Mine came with adapters to both 1/4" and 3/8" NPT.

 

[tayto]

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These are the ends of the OEM AC Delco engine oil cooler lines (12472277 and 12472278; one came with an o-ring [the outlet line for what it's worth] and one did not, but I'm not sure if that is the way they are supposed to be or if they both should have an o-ring). Is that a JIC? Or is it a metric o-ring port?

Am I correct in understanding that the engine oil cooler line end type at the radiator is different between 88-95 and 96-98 (and is that contributing to the confusion)? I have a (very late model-year 1995 Oct 16 build date) 1995 2DR 4WD 5.7L LS Tahoe.

Do I need metric o-ring port fittings on the radiator ends of my custom engine oil cooler lines (and is that in fact an M20x1.5 metric o-ring port)? Or would it work with liberally applied thread seal teflon/PTFE tape and the 20mm x 1.5 metric to -8 AN flare adapters that I already purchased (as I wishfully thought it might)?

(So far I've found several of, while the the appropriate type what I believe to be, incompatibly-sized M16x1.5 to -6AN flare adapters. When I search o-ring port adapter some have the o-ring on the nipple end [like the OEM photo and M16x1.5 to -6AN adapter example I included here] and some have the o-ring at the collar/neck. So, I'm not sure I've got the terminology "metric o-ring port" entirely correct, but again do I really need o-ring flange?)

As I've thought about this more I remember why I felt I could go with the 20mm x 1.5 metric to -8 AN flare adapters despite the OEM o-ring flange style. The OEM style engine oil cooler lines have metal end and a rubber center section. What follows is my logic and purely conjecture and not all terminology may be technically correct. In order to form a seal with the metal tube at the radiator end of the line GM chose a o-ring and compression flange on the metal tube itself. That may have been easier and/or more cost effective than trying to form a seal between the metal tube end and the M20x1.5 nut. And furthermore this design forms a type of swivel end; directly threading the metal tube end would have required spinning the whole cooler line to thread the end into the female port on the radiator; impractical. So, whereas I don't need to seal a separate
internal metal tube to the radiator port (as in the OEM design), I felt I could use the 20mm x 1.5 metric to -8 AN flare and seal the threads instead (my entire hose assembly is listed in the original post; and, on this login, I'm going to go ahead and finish putting the custom hoses together and install them).

No that is not JIC. The threads are not meant to be sealed so good luck with that. I don't know what the big fascination is with AN stuff. carefully cut the alunminum crimps off and goto a hydraulic supply hose shop and get them to crimp on new hose. done.

 

[Horntoad]

I want to say it was 1/4" NPT, this is the only pic I have.

You must be registered for see images attach

Do you already have a gauge? Mine came with adapters to both 1/4" and 3/8" NPT.

I haven't purchased a gauge or sensor yet, no. Most are 1/8" NPT, I believe. Great to know they might already come with adapters. Thank you.

 

[Horntoad]

No that is not JIC. The threads are not meant to be sealed so good luck with that. I don't know what the big fascination is with AN stuff. carefully cut the alunminum crimps off and goto a hydraulic supply hose shop and get them to crimp on new hose. done.

Not really a fascination. Not for me at least.

I have engine oil cooler lines that are leaking. I know the OEM style tend to leak at the metal-to-rubber crimps and at the quick-disconnect fittings. The crimps and the quick disconnect fitting seemed a less than ideal design. And I wanted to replace the lines with a ones that would last longer. With what I knew about hose replacement options - I'm no expert - AN hose was an apparent relatively easy and low cost fix. If I've reason to believe my chosen fix won't be any better or isn't a fix at all, I wouldn't do it.

Though my thinking was that if the M20 x 1.5 metric to -8 AN flare adapters didn't work, I could find M20 x 1.5 metric o-ring port to -8 AN flare adapters instead.

Appreciate everyone's help and insight.

 

[tayto]

I had forgotten the gmt400s had quick connects on the adapter side. I am use to my squarebody that has the saginaw oring style on both ends. If you can find the right saginaw style to AN for the cooler then that is probably your best bwt to get rid of the quick connects. I myself would keep the line coming out of the cooler and flare it for 37*. i have not been able to find fittings thay you are after...

EDIT:

9710 - Male JIC to Male GM Oil Cooler - Telstar Hydraulics Ltd.

Male JIC - Male GM Oil Cooler Adapt JIC Male to O'Ring Style Power Steering See Below For Available Sizes In Stock

www.telstarhydraulics.com

 

[GoToGuy]

Do you happen to know the size and thread type for those ports on the small block engine oil cooler adapter? Are they 3/8" NPT like the engine oil cooler line ports?

So this past summer, a Friday in August, I looked in the mirror driving home from work, " what's that, smoke?". Move a lane over , smoke followed me, gauge check.! Sheeeet! 10 psi oil press. Signal right, lane check, eng off, coast to shoulder. Call triple for tow home.
Open hood, yep, old rubber center of cooler burst, at 65 mph.
My fix at home. I have two new lines. I ordered from Imperial Hydraulics, quality company. The small improvement I made, replaced the quick connects on filter adapter with 2 each, 3/8 NPT male, to dash 8 AN male. Then cut off the QD end on the new lines to then install dash 8 sleeves and B nuts. The other end left stock for attachment to radiator cooler. Normal commercial flared tube is 45°. You can get the male flare and male pipe at auto or hardware store. And everyday hardware flare tool also. The point is it will be better than the QD's on the filter adapter. All the AG equipment I grew up on had pipe and 45 degree hardware it's personal preference.

In your questions about your repair, either you were not clear about replacing upgrading stock design or adding a standalone cooler. So the metric adapter confused me on a separate add on cooler. Sorry about that.
And yes Mr. Shurkey quite a few of the AN standards have been replaced by NAS-national aerospace standards, and MS- military specification. And yes a lot of these standards may have originated in SAE offices but not all. Example the male AN to male pipe. AN816 pipe to flare straight. ( -2D aluminum) ( ( -2 steel) ( -2J stainless)
For me it's not fascination, I'm a licensed Airframe and Powerplant mechanic. Standardized sizing, standardized part interchange. It's an easy language to understand.
Can any aftermarket produce fittings equivalent to Aeroquip, or as good as Stratoflex? I returned some on sale *** company to Jegs that had scratches on them that were for my Tahoe. Caveat Emtor.

 

[GoToGuy]

If you want photos of what my repair looks like now 6 mos later just ask.
So if you go with the metric adapters with O rings and flare/NPT on filter adapter. If your not skilled at hose fabrication have a hose shop fix you up. I do it when some customers want the best. Good luck

 

[Horntoad]

So this past summer, a Friday in August, I looked in the mirror driving home from work, " what's that, smoke?". Move a lane over , smoke followed me, gauge check.! Sheeeet! 10 psi oil press. Signal right, lane check, eng off, coast to shoulder. Call triple for tow home.
Open hood, yep, old rubber center of cooler burst, at 65 mph.
My fix at home. I have two new lines. I ordered from Imperial Hydraulics, quality company. The small improvement I made, replaced the quick connects on filter adapter with 2 each, 3/8 NPT male, to dash 8 AN male. Then cut off the QD end on the new lines to then install dash 8 sleeves and B nuts. The other end left stock for attachment to radiator cooler. Normal commercial flared tube is 45°. You can get the male flare and male pipe at auto or hardware store. And everyday hardware flare tool also. The point is it will be better than the QD's on the filter adapter. All the AG equipment I grew up on had pipe and 45 degree hardware it's personal preference.

In your questions about your repair, either you were not clear about replacing upgrading stock design or adding a standalone cooler. So the metric adapter confused me on a separate add on cooler. Sorry about that.
And yes Mr. Shurkey quite a few of the AN standards have been replaced by NAS-national aerospace standards, and MS- military specification. And yes a lot of these standards may have originated in SAE offices but not all. Example the male AN to male pipe. AN816 pipe to flare straight. ( -2D aluminum) ( ( -2 steel) ( -2J stainless)
For me it's not fascination, I'm a licensed Airframe and Powerplant mechanic. Standardized sizing, standardized part interchange. It's an easy language to understand.
Can any aftermarket produce fittings equivalent to Aeroquip, or as good as Stratoflex? I returned some on sale *** company to Jegs that had scratches on them that were for my Tahoe. Caveat Emtor.

I have seen an example on a youtube video where someone kept OEM metal tube sections on each end of the lines but replaced the quick-disconnect fitting and central hose section. It seemed to me they were using the AN hose sleeve ends to fit directly to the OEM cooler line end sections, compressing not hose but the aluminum pipe; fitting new hose in the middle section that way using AN hardware and on the oil filter adapter end, AN-to-NPT. While I already had purchased my chosen cooler line replacement parts, I was intrigued. But I wasn't sure how they did it or how it would work. Is that what you did? If so, what AN sleeve size did you use to fit to the OEM metal tube, and did you fit the sleeve directly the the aluminum tube, with nothing else to form a seal; that metal-to-metal compression will seal well?

 

[Horntoad]

Whisler Industrial Supply in Colorado Springs can identify provide the hoses and fittings for you. they are real good for this.

Update. sorry, thought I read your location as Colorado, eyes not focused yet this morning. An industrial supply shop near you will be able to sort this out quickly if you take the housing, hoses, and cooler in to them. Good luck

It was. And I realized I hadn't yet changed it when I saw your post. So I did update my location.

 

[Horntoad]

I haven't purchased a gauge or sensor yet, no. Most are 1/8" NPT, I believe. Great to know they might already come with adapters. Thank you.

Can anyone recommend a quality engine oil temp sensor/probe manufacturer? Is Autometer any good? Several come with the gauge and sensor. What about Datcon?