Engine oil

[Schurkey]

Long time ago I remember reading that there are only two truly synthetic oils, Amsoil and Mobil 1. The others are super refined dino stuff.

What is "Synthetic" or "Not Synthetic" depends on where you live.

If you live in America, the courts decided that heavily-refined Dinosaur Juice that's been heated and had Metallica played at it at Stadium levels can be sold as "Synthetic" because the molecules that come away from Metallica post-treatment are traumatized and quivvering differently than before.

In Europe, where the courts and the politicians weren't owned by the oil companies, you'd actually have to have synthetic oil to be sold as synthetic oil.

You might find that a brand of "synthetic" oil sold in America is phony synthetic, but that same brand sells genuine synthetic. in Europe. Bigger profits for the US side of the corporation.

Better to go by the "Group" numbers. Group III is Metallica-treated "natural" oil deceitfully sold as "synthetic" in America. Group IV is "genuine" synthetic oil.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

Since i'm so old that I used to use Havoline 30, changed it every 3,000 miles and just can't stop doing that.

Havoleen, Havoleen
Slipperiest oil I evah seen
Smells like shiit, but looks so clean
Havoleen

 

[R422b]

I run Rotella T6 in everything with a block dating back to the 60's or older. The only Lucus Mucus product I'd endorse is their chain lube. However, I am a fan of MotorKote, I put that stuff in at every oil change. Became a fan after watching a Project Farm video about it. He put two lawn mower engines side by side, one that had been running oil with Motor Kote and another that was just straight motor oil. He drained the oil on both and let 'em rip. I think the one with MK ran for 30 minutes while the other locked up after about 3 minutes or so.

I like that. Lucas Mucus. [emoji1787]
That about sums it up.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - Supercharged111

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Havoleen, Havoleen
Slipperiest oil I evah seen
Smells like shiit, but looks so clean
Havoleen

LMAO!!

 

[McSweeney]

Jesus who knew some guys could get so heated over motor oil lmao, anyway thanks for the input everyone! Odds are since i change my oil so frequently it reallt doesnt matter just wanted to hear what yall had to say. I think i am gunna stick to valvoline with the maxlife high mileage **** bc they have a good rep with that, other than that i just gotta drive her till she quits

 

[Schurkey]

One of the issues is that questions about motor oil come up over and over and over and over and over and over.

The same information, opinion, lies, facts, and half-truths get passed along over and over and over and over and over and over.

Nothing wrong with Valvoline. If you start taking oil samples for analysis, you won't be doing 3000 mile oil changes much longer. (Or, you'll be doing engine repairs--PCV system, thermostat, rings, intake manifold gaskets--that are causing oil contamination.)

 

[Frank Enstein]

With a 3000 mile oil change interval, synthetic oil doesn't warrant the extra cost. Use any national brand oil that maintains 10 psi per thousand RPM hot. Hot means after an hour of driving the way you usually drive. Towing, cruising 75 on the highway, or idling mailbox to mailbox. Hold the engine at 1000 rpm and see what the pressure is. Ten psi is enough. Twenty helps you sleep better at night. Over 20 and you are wasting fuel. Keep it clean and ignore it.

I don't recommend any flush products. If the oil comes out very dirty change the filter often and refill the oil. If after 3 filter changes the oil is still coming out dirty, change the oil as well.

As far as the lifter tick I have had ProLong fix a lifter tick as I was pouring it in on 2 engines. One a SBC and the other an 4.8 LS.
I have no idea what magic snake oil unicorn farts are in the bottle but it seemed to work for me.

In short keep it clean and it will be fine.

 

[Schurkey]

I don't recommend any flush products. If the oil comes out very dirty change the filter often and refill the oil. If after 3 filter changes the oil is still coming out dirty, change the oil as well.

Any sludge you solvent off the inside of the engine can go through the hydraulic lifters. Lifters have a large opening where the oil goes in, but a microscopic oil outlet path. Particles get in, can't get back out. Hydraulic lifters are, in effect, very expensive and very tiny oil filters. I'm the last person left on this planet that takes 'em apart for cleaning and inspection.

Consider installing a bypass oil filter. I get mine, used, from eBay for under $80. Sometimes WAY under.

The Frantz brand that I've been buying use a roll of cheap, single-ply ******* as a filter medium. They'll pull out particles as small as what makes up cigarette smoke.

Pull oil from any pressure source--tee'd into the oil pressure port, for example. Return to the pan or a valve cover. The aluminum filter base has a restriction orifice to limit oil flow.

Install the filter and housing, plumb it in, and leave it the hell alone until it stops warming up when the engine is hot. When the filter plugs, oil doesn't flow, so the filter housing stays cold.

I have one each on my K1500, my boat, and my solvent tank. Got another for the K2500, and one for "temporary" use on engines I start and run after overhaul.--to catch all the "break-in' wear particles.

There are other sources than eBay for bypass oil filters--they're still making "Frantz" filters, Amsoil has their own product, and there are other brands as well.

 

[eran tomer]

what about the zinc that is said to be needed in those flat tappet engines and doesn't exist in recent grades of oil?

in other words- which api grade is suitable?

 

[R422b]

what about the zinc that is said to be needed in those flat tappet engines and doesn't exist in recent grades of oil?

in other words- which api grade is suitable?

Zinc has just been replaced by other additives that do the job well. No one additive is required for anti-wear because there are many options available to lubricant formulators.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - Supercharged111

 

[Schurkey]

what about the zinc that is said to be needed in those flat tappet engines and doesn't exist in recent grades of oil?

in other words- which api grade is suitable?

It still "exists", but in reduced quantity in mass-market oil.

"Break-in" oils have additional ZDDP. Depending on your point-of-view, there are commercially-available ZDDP additives that can be poured-in. There's plenty of options for high-pressure anti-wear additives. But why bother?

The main take-away is that it's silly to use a flat-tappet cam in any kind of performance application. For stock applications, nitriding the cam can help.