Then there's my approach: Carefully figure clearance and use a sabre saw with a metal blade to cut a rectangular hole in the rear floor. File the sharp edges a little. Cut a piece of 1/2" pressure treated plywood 3 inches bigger both ways. Screw/glue the removed metal piece evenly on the plywood.
After replacing and testing the pump and maybe the tank adaptor (Rust Much??) place the metal/plywood patch back so the metal aligns. Hold in place and pilot/screw it into the floor in 6 or 8 places. Then remove it and use the caulk of your choice on the overlap section. Reposition and screw in place. Oh, put the carpet you removed back in place.
I have photos of this somewhere... Hmmm... I'll look
Some Japanese / European cars already have a removeable panel for the fuel pump. NICE guys!
Now YOU have one...
Works fine in a pickup, where you're not cutting a hole from the passenger compartment into the fuel tank area.
If you're opening a hole from the passenger compartment, you'd better be sure your "patch" will survive any possible collision without leakage, or you risk filling the passenger compartment with gasoline and burning everyone inside alive.
You guys old enough to remember the Ford Pinto? ONE layer of steel between the gasoline and the people. When that ONE layer tore...people died very unpleasantly.
The 98 PCM actually completely controls the fuel pump, it doesn't use the oil pressure switch anymore like the TBI motors did. Just for future reference
Thanks for that.
Any suggestions for a 1988 Suburban, 2500, 350 TBI Fuel pump?
Have the fuel pump assembly out, It had no output. debating whether to just replace the pump or the whole assembly. Does anyone have any thoughts or ways to test the relay, etc? I didn't know about the extra wire.
I can't believe the pump assembly for the 40 gallon tank is 64.00 and the 31 gallon one is 94.00.
Any advice is appreciated.
If the gas gauge worked properly, why replace the sender? If the gas gauge did not work properly, was it the sender that was faulty? More often, it's the wiring.
I would most likely replace the pump, the filter sock on the bottom,
and the in-tank wire harness that connects the pump and sending unit to the top of the hanger assembly. Use clamps that don't damage the connector hose from pump outlet to hanger assembly.
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Wire harness for a Lumina. For all I know, the same part number works for our trucks. The replacement harness tends to have wires of generous length.
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This is why you replace the in-tank harness. New wire vs. original wire.
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