Trans pan removal

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91babyblue

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I got Sierra. Trans is that 4160 one I think. There is the back 3 bolts. Cannot remove. Unless I take tranny brace off. Am I correct ?? Want to change oil etc. most likely have to brace it io too ?? Yo be on safe side. ??
 

Canadian Rust Bucket

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If you support the transmission and unbolt it from the crossmember, then cut the bolts holding the crossmember to the frame, you can pull the crossmember completely out of the way. The trick is to only lift the trans the absolute minimum to avoid undue stress on all the expensive stuff attached to the trans.

It might be overkill to remove the crossmember entirely to change the oil, but I did it for rust remediation and it was not very difficult.

When I supported the transmission, I threaded an eyebolt into one of the holes in the cab floor and attached some u-bolts around the trans just forward of the yoke. This might not work for you, depending on how disassembled your vehicle is. Mine had no seats at the time, and this temporary support was good enough I forgot it was on their and moved the truck around the yard a few times with it on, to no ill effect.
 

91babyblue

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If you support the transmission and unbolt it from the crossmember, then cut the bolts holding the crossmember to the frame, you can pull the crossmember completely out of the way. The trick is to only lift the trans the absolute minimum to avoid undue stress on all the expensive stuff attached to the trans.

It might be overkill to remove the crossmember entirely to change the oil, but I did it for rust remediation and it was not very difficult.

When I supported the transmission, I threaded an eyebolt into one of the holes in the cab floor and attached some u-bolts around the trans just forward of the yoke. This might not work for you, depending on how disassembled your vehicle is. Mine had no seats at the time, and this temporary support was good enough I forgot it was on their and moved the truck around the yard a few times with it on, to no ill effect.
Oh boy. I’ll try to remove them hair by hair. The only space I got. Thx so much though. You gave me options too
 

Canadian Rust Bucket

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Oh boy. I’ll try to remove them hair by hair. The only space I got. Thx so much though. You gave me options too
Also make sure you disconnect the crossmember from the transmission itself. It's either one or two bolts, but they're both recessed in the centre of the crossmember and thread into the rubber mount that the trans rests on. You'd have a pretty rough go if you missed that step.
 

91babyblue

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Also make sure you disconnect the crossmember from the transmission itself. It's either one or two bolts, but they're both recessed in the centre of the crossmember and thread into the rubber mount that the trans rests on. You'd have a pretty rough go if you missed that step.
Thx yes!!
 

Schurkey

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1. Safely and securely jack the front of the vehicle up (as required.) Drop lower cooler tube at radiator. Cram a piece of hose over the end, direct the end of the hose into a big (5-gallon or thereabouts) drain pan.

2. Start engine. Fluid shoots out of hose into drainpan. When the fluid starts to sputter, shut off engine. Trans pan is now nearly empty, you can drop it without sloshing fluid all over creation. NO need for a drain plug on the drain pan. A drain plug is just another leak-point.

3. At least on my '88 K1500, the rear three bolts come out using a 1/4" drive 13mm socket, Uniwiggle, and extension. No need to dick with the crossmember at all.

4. When you have the pan and magnet cleaned-up, and a new filter of the right type installed, reinstall the pan using a quality gasket. The newer OEM gaskets are wonderful and re-usable. Also expensive if you don't have one already. Drop 5 quarts of fluid down the dipstick tube. Open ten more and get 'em handy.

5. Start engine. Pour more fluid down the dipstick tube as fast as it'll flow. WATCH the fluid coming out of the hose into the drain pan. When that fluid shooting out of the hose looks virgin-new, shut off engine.

6. Reconnect cooler tube.

7. Start engine. Top-off fluid as needed.

8. Pour all the old fluid out of the drain pan back into the now-empty bottles for transport to the recycling center, or to a shop that uses waste-oil for heat, or whatever is the Government- or Greta-Tintin-Eleonora-Ernman-Loony-Shrieker-Approved method of disposal in Manisnowba.

9. Have an Adult Beverage. You're done. You've changed 95% of the old fluid, there's very little of that left to contaminate the new stuff.
 
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1998_K1500_Sub

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1. Safely and securely jack the front of the vehicle up (as required.) Drop lower cooler tube at radiator. Cram a piece of hose over the end, direct the end of the hose into a big (5-gallon or thereabouts) drain pan.

A variation on @Schurkey's Step #1:

- Get a pre-made piece of flared-end tubing at the local jobber (NAPA etc.) of same tubing size as trans line, or make your own

- Make 90deg bend in the line near one end, and then cut remainder to length to reach from UPPER trans cooler fitting on radiator down along radiator to near bottom of radiator

- Add a piece of hose to the end as desired

- Use this tool whenever doing a trans fluid flush on GMT400 or other suitable vehicle (e.g., S10 Blazer)

Continue following @Schurkey's instructions with particular attention given to Step #9. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

I like this method because there's no jacking; I just open the hood, disconnect the upper trans line, thread-in this "tool", and stick the hose in a waste oil jug.

With the vehicle on the ground the trans dipstick aka "fill tube" is within easy reach.

My $0.02
 
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