Synthetic Fluids Recommended?

[superdave]

Dino or synthetic to me is like blond or brunette. Either gets the job done.

 

[beardeddummy]

Dino or synthetic to me is like blond or brunette. Either gets the job done.

And the redhead don't exist

 

[michael hurd]

And the redhead don't exist

Royal Purple might just be the closest thing to a redhead...

 

[beardeddummy]

Might just be but she's expensive and I like my women on cheaper side. anyone who thinks an old truck is expensive ain't never had what I call a high maintenance women.

 

[Sampuppy1]

I made a thread for this. I'll go back and get a link.

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Tyler/T-Unit

 

[Sampuppy1]

http://www.gmt400.com/index.php?threads/20114/

Sent from a flagged XT1254
Tyler/T-Unit

 

[livestrongroadie]

Thanks for all the advice by the way everyone. Decided to start slow rather than go full bore right away and used Castrol part-synthetic and a bottle of zinc additive. So far no new leaks!

 

[shovelbill]

Hey everyone, just wanted to get your thoughts on some maintenance. Recently got a 1988 K1500 automatic from a family member that only had about 67k miles on it, but wanted to make sure that all the maintenance was on point. I have already changed the spark plugs and wires, flushed the cooling system and p/s system, changed the fluid in the front and rear differential and put in Castrol synthetic gear oil, and probably a few other things I have forgotten about.
Now moving on to the engine oil, transmission fluid, and transfer case fluid, what is your opinion on going synthetic with those things? I know that the mileage is extremely low for that year, but it is also close to a 30 year old truck so I am hesitant. Should I just stick with dino oil for those systems or does the low mileage trump the age? To my knowledge the transfer case also uses transmission fluid correct? If so, okay to go synthetic on that?

On a complete side note, when I drop the pan to do the transmission filter, I was thinking about dropping the valve body and putting in one of those B&M shift kits to sharpen up the shifting a bit. Is this a bad idea or okay given the low mileage? I have a few other small bolt-on performance parts I had in mind, but just curious if that one would likely do more harm than good to a truck of that age.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

my opinion is go with a good syn or semi syn lubricant......it's more important to use a good quality filter than expensive oil. i use Wix. don't use Fram.

i mostly use Brad Penn oils.... in my engines and Harley transmissions.....and i'd put synthetic in everything else....it has the proper amount of zinc and phosphorus for flat tappet cams too. pay attention to posi rears as Michael mentioned.

Brad penn is made in the USA......come to around $7.50 a quart

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ye, it's really green

 

[livestrongroadie]

I know your bottle says partial synthetic, but I think I remember reading once before that Brad Penn is the only brand that sells actual 100% synthetic oil since Castrol changed their synthetic.

 

[Supercharged111]

I always thought it was pure Dino oil. Anyway, the point most are missing here is the base stock from which the oil is made. Group 5 are the "real" synthetics, the ones that make a high mileage engine leak. Most synthetics these days use group 3 and group 4 base stocks. Group 3 is what Dino oil is made from. The word synthetic now is mostly a marketing term since some judge granted petroleum companies the ability to use the word on anything refined enough. Group 5 is tough to find, and you won't find it at Walmart or most parts store shelves. Amsoil and Redline are 2 that come to mind who actually make a true group 5 synthetic. Castrol, Mobil 1, and Royal Purple are not.