Oil coming from intake manifold bolts

[PlayingWithTBI]

But if I can figure out this oil situation

Like @Schurkey said, put some sealant on the intake bolts. The 2 inside bolts go into the valley in front of the push rods. Actually, if you use too long of a bolt it'll hit them.

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[Dennis Wilkie]

The surging has been an ongoing issue since day 1. One day it's here and gone the next. It's never had an O² sensor til recently, it also never had a pcv valve. They just stuffed a rag in the hole, and the same for the oil fill cap. There are no cats past the headers and the exhaust is dumped just behing the passenger door. I've cleaned the IAC and replaced the TPS, and reset the ecm multiple times. I've replaced the MAP sensor, egr solenoid and valve, and the fuel filter, all of the hoses around the throttle body, and I just recently got a fuel pressure test kit. I don't know what I haven't done at this point, lol

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

Oh, and the evap canister wasn't run to the throttle body originally either, and they just plugged the throttle body port with a piece of hose and a screw. The injectors seem fine. They appear to be spraying in a pretty uniform pattern. Vacuum hoses are all pulling at least 15. The headers only had 1 bolt each and no flange gaskets when I got it. I ran it once without the O² plugged in and it did NOT like that at all, so I don't think that's the problem. No revving when I spray carb cleaner around the throttle body base anywhere. Brand new distributor cap, rotor button, and ac delco pro ignition coil. So the ECM has been relearning all of this multiple times for quite some time now. It's getting to the point where i'm thinking about just selling the tbi and putting a carburetor on it. That way I could at least do away with alot of the sensors and ECM aspects. But of course, that takes money that I don't have, because this truck has robbed me of every spare dime i've had for the past year. It recently started acting like it wanted to die again when I come to a stop or drop to 1st gear, but not when I go from Park to Neutral or Drive. The idle adjust screw is still capped off so I don't think it's an issue. I reset the timing from tdc with the Electronic Advance disconnected again, so it's all where it's supposed to be. I thought I had all this fixed and behind me, but I guess not. On the plus side, it's borderline a brand new truck.

 

[Schurkey]

You've done a pile of work to this truck, leaning as you go. Congrats.

Three suggestions:
1. Find out if there's a nearby Vo-Tech, Community College or other institution that offers night or weekend courses on auto mechanics. This sort of education is getting more rare, but it'd be a good thing if it's available where you are. If not, maybe there's a local "car club" you can join and find a mentor that will teach you.

2. Throw that Haynes manual in the fireplace, buy a REAL Genuine GM service manual for your vehicle. Often available on eBay, used, for advantageous prices. I bought a "service manual on DVD" from Bishko, sold by Summit Racing for my '97 K2500. About $40. Not horrible, but I was cheated out of the "Unit Repair Manual" because in '97, they told you to use the '96 Unit Repair Manual, and that wasn't included on the DVD. Other years would probably not have this fault.

3. Get (buy or borrow) a proper scan tool, look at the data stream.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

You've done a pile of work to this truck, leaning as you go. Congrats.

Three suggestions:
1. Find out if there's a nearby Vo-Tech, Community College or other institution that offers night or weekend courses on auto mechanics. This sort of education is getting more rare, but it'd be a good thing if it's available where you are. If not, maybe there's a local "car club" you can join and find a mentor that will teach you.

2. Throw that Haynes manual in the fireplace, buy a REAL Genuine GM service manual for your vehicle. Often available on eBay, used, for advantageous prices. I bought a "service manual on DVD" from Bishko, sold by Summit Racing for my '97 K2500. About $40. Not horrible, but I was cheated out of the "Unit Repair Manual" because in '97, they told you to use the '96 Unit Repair Manual, and that wasn't included on the DVD. Other years would probably not have this fault.

3. Get (buy or borrow) a proper scan tool, look at the data stream.

What he really needs is a fuel and Emissions including Driveability manual X8836 is the number for an '88 truck

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

How about these? Thanks to @hatzie
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/

 

[L31MaxExpress]

So, my 92 k1500 has been running pretty good since the oil pump replacement...maybe a little too good. I drove it earlier and noticed on the passenger side of the intake in front of the egr, a little bit of oil that came up from the intake bolts. It's never done this before, and i've already had the intake off 3 times in the past 2 months, but not recently, and I can't afford to keep buying these gaskets at $30 a pop. It's an Edelbrock 3704 tbi intake on a 5.7L, by the way. I'm open to any suggestions, causes, solutions, etc. I don't know how this would be relevant, but I just added a small breather filter on top of the pcv valve on the driver's side and deleted the hose going to the riser. Maybe it's relevant, I don't know, but I thought i'd throw that bit of info in there as well.

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That intake appears to be slotted for the older style intake bolt arrangement. Are those aluminum vette heads or aftermarket heads? If so you need the tappered spacers used to correct the bolt head to intake surface alignment.

 

[Mycotroph]

Oh, and the evap canister wasn't run to the throttle body originally either, and they just plugged the throttle body port with a piece of hose and a screw. The injectors seem fine. They appear to be spraying in a pretty uniform pattern. Vacuum hoses are all pulling at least 15. The headers only had 1 bolt each and no flange gaskets when I got it. I ran it once without the O² plugged in and it did NOT like that at all, so I don't think that's the problem. No revving when I spray carb cleaner around the throttle body base anywhere. Brand new distributor cap, rotor button, and ac delco pro ignition coil. So the ECM has been relearning all of this multiple times for quite some time now. It's getting to the point where i'm thinking about just selling the tbi and putting a carburetor on it. That way I could at least do away with alot of the sensors and ECM aspects. But of course, that takes money that I don't have, because this truck has robbed me of every spare dime i've had for the past year. It recently started acting like it wanted to die again when I come to a stop or drop to 1st gear, but not when I go from Park to Neutral or Drive. The idle adjust screw is still capped off so I don't think it's an issue. I reset the timing from tdc with the Electronic Advance disconnected again, so it's all where it's supposed to be. I thought I had all this fixed and behind me, but I guess not. On the plus side, it's borderline a brand new truck.

so i had a similar issue at one time running rough surging dying, i changed egr, distributor cap, plugs, wires, IAC, MAP, rebuilt TBI, pcv, breather tube and vacuum hoses, in the end last thing i changed out was the brake booster? anyways have fun with that

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

They're the 10088113, 1986 - 1991 Corvette OEM aluminum factory heads, and yeah, they're supposed to have the angled spacers, but as you can probably guess, it didn't. The block is also from an '87 Vette. But it's never leaked before, except for when I didn't use enough rtv on the china wall the 1st time. It also never had as much oil pressure as it does now. I had considered it having something to do with the brake system, considering it has absolutely nothing for a rear brake system...and I mean nothing. I attached an old picture with the pumpkin missing a bolt, and u can see where the head gasket, sending unit, and oil pan was leaking on the exhaust. But i'm leak free now...almost $10,000 later, including the ridiculous amount of tools i've had to buy...I'm broke, lol

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[Dennis Wilkie]

You've done a pile of work to this truck, leaning as you go. Congrats.

Three suggestions:
1. Find out if there's a nearby Vo-Tech, Community College or other institution that offers night or weekend courses on auto mechanics. This sort of education is getting more rare, but it'd be a good thing if it's available where you are. If not, maybe there's a local "car club" you can join and find a mentor that will teach you.

2. Throw that Haynes manual in the fireplace, buy a REAL Genuine GM service manual for your vehicle. Often available on eBay, used, for advantageous prices. I bought a "service manual on DVD" from Bishko, sold by Summit Racing for my '97 K2500. About $40. Not horrible, but I was cheated out of the "Unit Repair Manual" because in '97, they told you to use the '96 Unit Repair Manual, and that wasn't included on the DVD. Other years would probably not have this fault.

3. Get (buy or borrow) a proper scan tool, look at the data stream.

Yeah, I already tried the OBD1/OBD2 route and it cost me almost $200 for something I was told was compatible, but ended up not. I really wish it would've worked though. I could've been done with all the tbi issues by now. Hell, I get an employee discount at Pick and Pull now on everything, so there's not too many things that I can't get replaced for cheap...if I do the labor, just like I did all of the other projects so far.

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