Oil coming from intake manifold bolts

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Dennis Wilkie

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So, my 92 k1500 has been running pretty good since the oil pump replacement...maybe a little too good. I drove it earlier and noticed on the passenger side of the intake in front of the egr, a little bit of oil that came up from the intake bolts. It's never done this before, and i've already had the intake off 3 times in the past 2 months, but not recently, and I can't afford to keep buying these gaskets at $30 a pop. It's an Edelbrock 3704 tbi intake on a 5.7L, by the way. I'm open to any suggestions, causes, solutions, etc. I don't know how this would be relevant, but I just added a small breather filter on top of the pcv valve on the driver's side and deleted the hose going to the riser. Maybe it's relevant, I don't know, but I thought i'd throw that bit of info in there as well.

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Schurkey

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I just added a small breather filter on top of the pcv valve on the driver's side and deleted the hose going to the riser.
ON TOP OF THE PCV VALVE??? Looks to me like it's on the opposite valve cover from the PCV valve. Can you clarify?

1. Verify the PCV valve is correct, and working properly. Hose not collapsed, valve not rusted, correct (large) manifold-vacuum port, etc.

2a. Verify that fumes can get OUT, and air can get IN the dumb PCV filter you installed in place of the factory-engineered free-flowing hose-and-tube system.
2b. Paper breather filter? I'd have guessed "oiled gauze" like K&N but with blue-dyed filter oil instead of red-dyed filter oil.

3. Verify that the engine doesn't produce EXCESS blow-by.

4. Pipe thread sealant on the intake bolts. I prefer Loctite/Permatex 592, but 565 and 567 are similarly-good. Use other sealers at your own risk.
 
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Hipster

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Ditto what Shurkey said. Also, a proper pcv system helps rid the engine of airborne caustic combustion by products and help your engine live longer. Less oil contamination. Even a fresh engine has some leak down. Chrome don't get ya home so ditch the pretty filter.

And what's up with the goofy ass wire nuts? Just because stereo and alarm installer guys do it that way doesn't mean it's right. Do some proper soldered connections on that stuff before you have goofy intermittent electrical issues.
 
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Dennis Wilkie

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The filter is on the opposite side (drivers side) of where the oil is on the manifold, and the filter is just to see if it made any difference. All of the PVC valves I have are all brand new and clicking away just fine. There are 2 holes machined in the drivers side valve cover (oil fill/pcv), and the driver pcv went to the rear air cleaner riser, and 1 in the passenger side (pcv) which goes to the vacuum on the front, next to the evap canister hose. I attatched an older picture, but the setup is basically still the same now, just new hoses and a little cleaner

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Dennis Wilkie

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Ditto what Shurkey said. Also, a proper pcv system helps rid the engine of airborne caustic combustion by products. Less oil contamination. Even a fresh engine has some leak down.

And what's up with the goofy ass wire nuts? Just because stereo guys do it that way doesn't mean it's right. Do some proper soldered connections on that stuff before you have goofy intermittent electrical issues.
Those were already there when I bought it. Those "goofy ass wire nuts" are byfar the best thing they did to this truck before I got it, and they're the farthest thing from my mind as far as getting this thing back to normal functioning operation again.
 

Dennis Wilkie

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The IAC wires were just taped into the connector if that gives you any idea of the quality of work i've been having to deal with, and i'm doing all of this with no mechanical knowledge/experience prior to January 3, 2019. No ignition lock cylinder, every sensor was bad, every fluid was leaking somewhere, the whole front end was about to fall apart, and just about the whole throttle body was being held together with zip ties and thin metal wire, including the detent and throttle cables. I've pretty much rebuilt the entire truck aside from the bottom of the motor, rear end, and the 700-r4. It's cost me a small fortune and countless hours of labor and headaches. Not to mention the only help i've got was from here, the Haynes manual, and YouTube. But if I can figure out this oil situation and why it just started surging and stalling at low idle, I can FINALLY install the rear brake system and it will be mechanically sound again.
 

Hipster

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Those were already there when I bought it. Those "goofy ass wire nuts" are byfar the best thing they did to this truck before I got it, and they're the farthest thing from my mind as far as getting this thing back to normal functioning operation again.

It doesn't matter who did it. I asked what's up with them. My statement still stands. Wire nuts are open to corrosion, prone to loosening from vibration, add resistance to the line, and a jack-leg way to do it. Crimp connectors aren't much better. The resistance they create in the wire can cause performance/voltage issues with some electronics and ECM's so don't discount this as part of the issue when sensors and computers aren't acting right.
 
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Dennis Wilkie

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This truck doesn't move more than 20 miles per week, and those are mostly test drive miles after i've replaced something. I think it'll be just fine until I can actually drive the truck past the gas station 1.5 miles from my house
 

Hipster

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This truck doesn't move more than 20 miles per week, and those are mostly test drive miles after i've replaced something. I think it'll be just fine until I can actually drive the truck past the gas station 1.5 miles from my house
Yeah, it sounds like you're struggling so just tossing ideas that may help get you there.

When did the stalling/surging thing begin? Before, after, or the same time you did the pcv modification and what did you do at the tbi end? Leave it open or cap it? Have you checked air/fuel ratios? The factory calibrations are going to be based on that airflow from the pcv being there.

On fuel injection one seemingly innocuous modification can lead to another.
 
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