CHEAP Headers for 1994 K1500 4x4 pickup??

[99xcss4]

The reason square headers won't fit 400s is the frame differences.

yes and the front driveshaft goes from right on square to left on gmt400 from side saddle tank(s) to inboard tank. I read some where it might have been here I do not remember but some one tried to headers for a square body do not know if it was a small block or a big block it went like this one side went on the other side would not fit at all.

 

[618 Syndicate]

I've tried square big block headers on a 2wd 400, they do not fit.

 

[Vettepilot]

Well, again, I'm confused. (Maybe just stupid.) Mine is a 1994 GMC K1500 4wd. I am still curious as to why some listings show 1988 all the way to 1995 as being the same fitment, while some listings go only to 1992. Again, what, (if anything), is the difference from 1992 to 1995?

Note that this is a non-smog application, and that I am a fabricator. I will be building a new exhaust myself from the collectors back, adding 02 bungs both for the computer and my Wideband O2 tuning serup, etc. I don't want to miss out on a good deal on a set of headers, (like the Jeg's 165$ set), simply for some silly reason regarding O2 sensors, or fitment to stock exhaust, etc., etc.

My price range is around 200$. There's a few tricks to it, but cheap headere can last and not leak. My last set, on a HOT big block in a Blazer, lasted me 20 years, and it was driven right on the beach frequently! (Mexico - where there still is some freedoms left...)

;~)

Thanx!
Vettepilot

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm confused. (Maybe just stupid.) Mine is a 1994 GMC K1500 4wd. I am still curious as to why some listings show 1988 all the way to 1995 as being the same fitment, while some listings go only to 1992. Again, what, (if anything), is the difference from 1992 to 1995?

Where is your O2 sensor located? The later TBIs had it down in the Y-Pipe, not the exhaust manifold - that's all I can think of.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Well, again, I'm confused. (Maybe just stupid.) Mine is a 1994 GMC K1500 4wd. I am still curious as to why some listings show 1988 all the way to 1995 as being the same fitment, while some listings go only to 1992. Again, what, (if anything), is the difference from 1992 to 1995?

Note that this is a non-smog application, and that I am a fabricator. I will be building a new exhaust myself from the collectors back, adding 02 bungs both for the computer and my Wideband O2 tuning serup, etc. I don't want to miss out on a good deal on a set of headers, (like the Jeg's 165$ set), simply for some silly reason regarding O2 sensors, or fitment to stock exhaust, etc., etc.

My price range is around 200$. There's a few tricks to it, but cheap headere can last and not leak. My last set, on a HOT big block in a Blazer, lasted me 20 years, and it was driven right on the beach frequently! (Mexico - where there still is some freedoms left...)

;~)

Thanx!
Vettepilot

TBI motors in 400 trucks ran through 95. The websites that you're finding are probably wrong. The difference in 400 headers is between TBI and Vortec motors.

 

[DeCaff2007]

TBI motors in 400 trucks ran through 95. The websites that you're finding are probably wrong. The difference in 400 headers is between TBI and Vortec motors.

That makes perfect sense and is probably correct.

I'm about to go through this same dilemma, so I'll be following this thread

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I've seen this subject posted ad nauseum and there's always a debate.
One says he can fit them if you'd just find the exact right one, most other commenters say no way.
Then there's the need for special bending and welding and routing and heat shielding, and there's the O.P. who states emphatically: "CHEAP".
If you want cheap, you don't want long tubes. It means double the cost, double the pipes, double the mufflers, double the tailpipes.

For packaging and real world driving, a set of shorties will do just fine. Long tube headers do improve cylinder scavenging... especially at 6000 RPMS! TBI engines don't rev to 6k. Real world driving is under 4k and shorties will be your best, cheap header.
O.P. don't get hung up on racecar exhaust on a stock truck with a stock engine, with stock tires and stock gears.

I have a spare set of chrome shorties, NIB. Want 'em? $100 plus shipping.

 

[1990Z71Swede]

I've seen this subject posted ad nauseum and there's always a debate.
One says he can fit them if you'd just find the exact right one, most other commenters say no way.
Then there's the need for special bending and welding and routing and heat shielding, and there's the O.P. who stayes emphatically "CHEAP".
If you want cheap, you don't want long tubes. It means double the cost, double the pipes, double the mufflers, double the tailpipes.

For packaging and real world driving, a set of shorties will do just fine. Long tube headers do improve cylinder scavenging... especially at 6000 RPMS! TBI engines don't rev to 6k. Real world driving is under 4k and shorties will be your best, cheap header.
O.P. don't get hung up on racecar exhaust on a stock truck with a stock engine, with stock tires and stock gears.

I have a spare set of chrome shorties, NIB. Want 'em? $100 plus shipping.

I could absolutely take them. The more time I spend under the hood, looking at the limited space, the more appealing shorties get But I guess shipping to Sweden would be Pricey?

 

[Boots97]

When did the Suburbans switch from squarebody to GMT400?

Any chance that was '92?

Yes, it was '92.

 

[Scooterwrench]

I'm guessing you can get "cheap" headers to fit but it will take a little work to make them perform. Even the Hedmans have quite a bit of weld bead around the ports where the tubes are welded to the flanges and the tubes to the collectors. A little work with a die grinder and rotary file make them flow much better. The worst I've seen are modern Hookers.