Aux. Radiator Fan ???

[bugdewde]

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The only other EFI car was the Datsun 280Z in 1976, .......

Don't forget the ' 75 & '76 digital fuel injection Chevy Cosworth Vega. ... Or the Opel Manta.

 

[Ken K]

Don't forget the ' 75 & '76 digital fuel injection Chevy Cosworth Vega. ... Or the Opel Manta.

I have heard of these. I love a car when you have to pull a lever, to manually rotate the headlights up from flush to the hood, to shine on the road. Opel GT!
Although many attempts, efforts and engineering money was put into different types of fuel injection, I find many completely strange. A number of these where sold, but somewhat rare in my neighborhood.
I had a guy ask to meet him at his home's garage and he opened the door and there sat a 60's something Mercedes with mechanical fuel injection. The engine was covered in dust, I passed. It had a float bowl looking thing to supply a diesel type piston type pump. Just because they can dream it, doesn't make it right.
The "CIS" fuel injection systems used on Scandinavian cars or Eastern Europe where interesting. Using a down flow or up flow plate to move as the engine produced a vacuum. A balancing act of air, pivot and hand-lapped valve could control how much fuel sprayed constantly out a poppet type nozzle. I call them the "Garden Hose" fuel injection. It would spray a little to idle, then spray more to go faster, but never shut off. The poppet would stick, or the valve would leak if not cleaned with regular maintenance. The fuel metering head was extremely expensive, with the valve was hand lapped to fit without leaking. If you held it in your hand to warm it up, it would not fit into the head. Perfect round, polished and hand lapped for hours...just to make it fit.
I will be the first to say, that when carburetors started to disappear, I was happy because external vacuum controls where crazy. Honda, I think, was the worst with about 70 hoses, most going into some control box. But these where days when "Remanufactured" products where just becoming available. Some good and some where terrible.

But, it's all history and still won't fix or diagnose a cooling fan. I looked at some HF amp clamps and was disappointed. Most, had no "DC" amp function, but then, the scale jump to 500 amps...What?
I feel that if I am working on circuits with 3 amps to 140 amps, the meter I would choose would have a DC scale from 0 - 200 amps to be more accurate. Disappointing as there are no more $40 DC amp clamps sold with digital read out.
I will give mine a hug today!

 

[Schurkey]

I looked at some HF amp clamps and was disappointed. Most, had no "DC" amp function, but then, the scale jump to 500 amps...What?
I feel that if I am working on circuits with 3 amps to 140 amps, the meter I would choose would have a DC scale from 0 - 200 amps to be more accurate. Disappointing as there are no more $40 DC amp clamps sold with digital read out.
I will give mine a hug today!

HF has nothing I need or want. It's the worst of the low-budget, high-failure, high-advertising screwjob.

Anyone looking for an adequate amp-clamp should at least consider AESWave. AESWave has a large selection of hobby and automotive meters and accessories including training books, and they're known for good pre- and post-sale support.
https://www.aeswave.com/Current-Probes-c414/

This is the one I bought (I have several amp clamps, two (one high-current, one low-current) as sold with/for the Counselor series of automotive oscilloscopes by Snap-On, another high-amp clamp that's permanently attached to an automotive Amp/Volt/Battery tester, and this one which can be attached to any multimeter with banana inputs (practically all of 'em.)

https://www.aeswave.com/Current-Probe-Low-range-with-Banana-Plugs-p9501.html

Yeah, it's imported, and yeah, it's not lab-grade--but it seems entirely satisfactory for automotive use and low-amp household wiring.

There's similar products for higher-amperage applications.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Remember the old Sun diagnostics center about 3 or 4' wide and 5' high, which included the big oscilloscope in the center?

 

[Schurkey]

Remember the old Sun diagnostics center about 3 or 4' wide and 5' high, which included the big oscilloscope in the center?

There were several versions of that. Some were just more complete than others, and they changed over time.

I worked with several. A gas-station service department had an old one (at that time) but it seemed to function just fine. I spent some time at a mall-based auto service center that had the Sun 1010 or 1015 (I don't remember which) and a couple months at an independent repair shop that had the Big Doggie model...2001? All "computerized", you'd connect the leads to the car, push a button, and start the engine. At a certain point in the automated test routine, you'd stab the gas pedal.

At the end of the programmed testing, the thing would print out a list of results that included, but was not limited to an electric cranking-compression test (compared starter amperage draw to the cylinder which was on the compression stroke at that moment), battery voltage, idle rpm, exhaust emissions including when the accelerator pump was activated, cylinder balance...it was fairly comprehensive.





When I was paying the bills, I bought a Snap-On Counselor II used from eBay. It will do almost everything the Sun 2001 would do, but not as an automated sequence. I have to run each test independent from the rest.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

This one I worked with was in the 70s - can't remember what model. There was a smaller setup with about 5 different individual scanners you would hook up, but this one had an arm with all of the hook-ups and you would swing it out into the engine bay, hook it up and turn it on.

Another fun thing I remember - tuning dual point distributors, block off one set of points with a matchbook cover, set the other @18*, after setting both, the dwell would somehow be 32* - PFM (Pure Fxxxing Magic), LOL

 

[Schurkey]

Each point set is offset a few degrees from the cam lobe and each other. There's a "Make" set that's advanced a few degrees from the "Break" set. The circuit closes and current flows when the "Make" set closes. (it "makes" the electrical circuit.) Then the Break set closes and current is split between the two sets. The "Make" set opens, all the current flows through the "Break" set, but it still flows until the "Break" set opens. At that point, the current flow collapses, and you get a spark.

You get all the advantages of an extra-long dwell period, without all the problems of just cranking-up the dwell on a single set of points.

I ran dual-points for a short time. I was damned glad to switch to HEI.

 

[Schurkey]

http://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog...nce-analyzer-1115-the-most-fun-under-the-sun/

Apparently, I mis-remembered the Sun model numbers--or the machines were fairly similar. I said "1015" but maybe it was an 1115.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Apparently, I mis-remembered the Sun model numbers--or the machines were fairly similar. I said "1015" but maybe it was an 1115.

That looks like the one we had except ours had its own matching stand.

 

[Ken K]

All "computerized", you'd connect the leads to the car, push a button, and start the engine. At a certain point in the automated test routine, you'd stab the gas pedal.

At the end of the programmed testing, the thing would print out a list of results that included, but was not limited to an electric cranking-compression test (compared starter amperage draw to the cylinder which was on the compression stroke at that moment), battery voltage, idle rpm, exhaust emissions including when the accelerator pump was activated, cylinder balance...it was fairly comprehensive.

Moved to Omaha in 82 for more opportunities to earn money. As most shops, they looked at your back ground and experience from your resume. But, I looked at the shops equipment to determine if I wanted to work there. My second stop for a job after the dealer was not hiring, #2 had been in business for 42 years and had a new "Bear Ace" engine analyzer w/4 gas. Once most all leads hooked up and amp clamp on battery, negative to distributor, It too would do static cranking test, fuel balance, snap throttle then when done, printed out a sheet from battery condition, compression, fuel, etc. It was trolly mounted and spent most of it's time on my end of the shop. Great machine.
But yes, any of the popular Engine Analyzer's had a primary and secondary lead connections. Using the primary would show any 10-14 Volt DC activity but at a slow sample rate compared to high speed Pico, Techtronics, and other today. I did over look one thing that first day, as they did not have a hoist except for the "H" type on North side for alignments.

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