Would you still get an alignment done?

[Reluctanse]

OK so it's on my '07 and not on a GMT400, but all the same rules apply-
I replaced all the tie rods, doing my very best to mesure and install the new ones as close as I could get to where the old ones were set. I am confident I got them within 1/16" of where the OG stuff was. Got everything back together and the burb drives great, steering wheel is straight, no wandering.
I don't want to spend the money... but should I still get an alignment done?

 

[Hipster]

yes, you can have stuff pretty out of whack and it still will drive straight but eat tires.

 

[1990Z71Swede]

You can check your toe setting yourself. it's pretty simple.

If you get excessive toe in, or out, it will eat your tires in short order. Thats an expensive way of finding out you needed the alignment

I'm sure there are a gazillion Youtube videos explaining different methods of how to do it. I use a simple tool I made from some square tubing.

 

[Illbedipped]

Most shops will check the alignment for a nominal fee. Actual adjustment is where the time and money is spent. It's worth it to have alignment checked to save tire wear.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'd get it aligned, and I'm cheap. That said, you can align it in your driveway if you don't have a place nearby that will do it cheap. For $100, I'll pay someone to do it.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYGF7SWwHTk

 

[Reluctanse]

thanks for the sanity check-

 

[Reluctanse]

Got around to the alignment shop today.

Look at that before and after toe fellers and fellettes!

You must be registered for see images attach

The tech was blown away when I told him I had replaced the tie rod ends, said he'd never seen it that close.



Glad I got it done anyways though, thanks crew.

Side question on the caster... I don't remember it being right on the edge when I had it done last time, wondering if it was then. Also wondering if something with my t-bar crank (about 2" to level the front) would impact that at all?

 

[Hipster]

Got around to the alignment shop today.

Look at that before and after toe fellers and fellettes!

You must be registered for see images attach

The tech was blown away when I told him I had replaced the tie rod ends, said he'd never seen it that close.



Glad I got it done anyways though, thanks crew.

Side question on the caster... I don't remember it being right on the edge when I had it done last time, wondering if it was then. Also wondering if something with my t-bar crank (about 2" to level the front) would impact that at all?

Cranking one really messes with the camber making it negative. so this was more than likely that there was not enough room left for caster adjustment after the upper arm was moved out board to get close on camber. Ie: there is no more outbound adjustment at the front bolt of the UCA and adjusting the rear one inwards will pull in negative camber again. Hundreds of threads on this site why cranking one is not ideal and how it turns suspension, steering parts, and front diff cv boots into an annual event.

 

[Schurkey]

So...how did they adjust the rear axle to change the camber and toe?

 

[Hipster]

So...how did they adjust the rear axle to change the camber and toe?

One got under there with a pry bar while the other one clicked the button on the machine to lock the measurements......like is often done. lol