94 k1500 alignment issues

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Erik the Awful

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Trust me, use a metric ruler. Alignments are confusing enough without having to calculate fractions. Millimeters are far easier to deal in than 16ths of an inch.

If you're doing your own alignment, the strings/lasers are only good for setting toe. You can measure camber with a level and a protractor. You can't measure caster without special tools.
 

pressureangle

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I didn't read every reply thoroughly, but 3 things come to mind;
1. Your alignment shop is incompetent. As stated many times above.
2. Your rear springs may be bent sideways causing what's called 'thrust angle'.
3. Your frame may be twisted where the steering box mounts.

Those are the 'hard to find' places (they're not)
The suggestions above about twisted pitman, rag joint twisted/torn, etc are all valid. In any case, alignments are not electricity- 100% you can find the problem with your eyes and fingers if you look closely enough. A tape measure is your friend here- start with a helper and measure from the front lower ball joints to the rear brake backing plates, or as closely as you can corner to corner so the tape is as flat as possible in both directions. If it's not within a half-inch of equal, something is probably bent.
 

Jjbiskup

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Absolutely. Laser alignments are faster, not necessarily more accurate, especially if the technician is only taught to get it "in spec".

With a handful of cheap parts and a little knowledge, you can do your own alignment. My race team does it all the time at the track. It's just tedious.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYGF7SWwHTk
Thankyou for giving me advice that would help in my situation rather than just saying “take it to an alignment shop”. I will try that, thanks.
 

Jjbiskup

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I didn't read every reply thoroughly, but 3 things come to mind;
1. Your alignment shop is incompetent. As stated many times above.
2. Your rear springs may be bent sideways causing what's called 'thrust angle'.
3. Your frame may be twisted where the steering box mounts.

Those are the 'hard to find' places (they're not)
The suggestions above about twisted pitman, rag joint twisted/torn, etc are all valid. In any case, alignments are not electricity- 100% you can find the problem with your eyes and fingers if you look closely enough. A tape measure is your friend here- start with a helper and measure from the front lower ball joints to the rear brake backing plates, or as closely as you can corner to corner so the tape is as flat as possible in both directions. If it's not within a half-inch of equal, something is probably bent.
Thrust angle and camber were still within spec. I am going to grab an axle from the junkyard and replace that today. I believe toe just got knocked out of alignment as only one wheel was not straight before alignment.
 

termite

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Thrust angle and camber were still within spec. I am going to grab an axle from the junkyard and replace that today. I believe toe just got knocked out of alignment as only one wheel was not straight before alignment.
I wouldnt trust the numbers on an alingment sheet given to me by a shop that couldn't even set the steering wheel center before setting toe.

Take your time, be tedious, and follow the steps laid out by others here and you should be able to figure out what is bent. Personally, I'm find a better shop and have them check it over bumper to bumper.
 

Jjbiskup

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What bent to cause that?

How many things bent to cause that?
I went under there and measured and looked at everything. The only thing i suspect to be bent is the passenger side knuckle. Its hard to tell because its so minimal. The tie rod lengths from center to center is 15 5/8 for the driver side and 15 1/4 for the passenger side. The passenger side is the side that got hit. These measurements are after alignment. I also think the shop kinda bent my frame
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scott2093

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Jeez...how did they dork the frame?
CV angles or at least the boots look different for whatever reason
 
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