94 k1500 alignment issues

[Schurkey]

He's saying the axle shaft on the right side is bent at the flange. Easy enough to rip it out and stuff a new one in, probably with a new seal and maybe a new bearing.

Lucky if the right-side wheels aren't bent, too.

Previous alignment shop is staffed with idiots. Don't go back there except to demand a refund. Why is the "Before" toe measurements better than the "Current" toe measurement? Did they make the toe WORSE?

As said--there's multiple potential bent parts up front, (too many to name again.) According to the results sheet posted, the rear axle is not square to the frame, either--but I'll let alignment experts determine how important that is. I don't know what the allowable tolerance is for that--but a tenth of a degree "seems" like "way too much" to me.

IF (big IF) I'm reading that alignment sheet correctly, the axle twist is in the direction that would require right-turn correction at the steering wheel, just as described (although perhaps not as much as described.)

 

[Hipster]

He's saying the axle shaft on the right side is bent at the flange. Easy enough to rip it out and stuff a new one in, probably with a new seal and maybe a new bearing.

Lucky if the right-side wheels aren't bent, too.

Previous alignment shop is staffed with idiots. Don't go back there except to demand a refund.

As said--there's multiple potential bent parts up front, (too many to name again.) According to the results sheet posted, the rear axle is not square to the frame, either--but I'll let alignment experts determine how important that is. I don't know what the allowable tolerance is for that--but a tenth of a degree "seems" like "way too much" to me.

IF (big IF) I'm reading that alignment sheet correctly, the axle twist is in the direction that would require right-turn correction at the steering wheel, just as described (although perhaps not as much as described.)

That's kind of my take away, but the alignment sheet is not showing that. Bent wheel or axle flange would show as toe or camber problem depending on rotation, and the responses are a bit lacking in definition and terms. IF it already has a new axle in it etc. More clarity would help along with correct terminology and further diagnosis.

 

[Jjbiskup]

You really need an alignment rack to tell the truth here, and somebody that can use it proficiently. Your talking about measurements where 1 degee or less makes a difference. When you hit the curb, the wheels stopped instantaneously, 5k lbs worth of truck and inertia kept going. The chances of not bending a knuckle/control arm/ tie rod are in the slim to none category and you need diagnostics, not a $49 alignment special.

Nad is an alignment guy and I spent my life as a collision tech. Your still not describing things correctly. In the front you have a knuckle, hub, and cv axle, and steering linkage components,. All separate pieces that could be damaged. Rear alignment issues are not showing on the sheet other than identical + and - amounts on opposite sides(frame tweaked? and it's why set back #'s on the front matter). In the rear you have a one piece axle. It could be damaged inside the housing but still a singular bent piece if it didn't destroy the brake backing plate. You're looking for damage that could be less than 1/16 of an inch. You're not going to find it with a calibrated eyeball or tape measure unless it's fubar'd. I don't have a lot of confidence in your abilities as your not sure how to refer to the parts yet.

I got the truck for 700, put a new battery and interior in it costing a total of 350. I referred to the “rear inner axle” as to not confuse anybody with the actual axle tube. I’m not trying to spend hundreds of more dollars on a truck that is worth less than a grand to me. The truck has little to no rust issues as well. I looked over the alignment sheet and it seems to appear that everything is within spec according to documents I found online. I have basic knowledge on all the parts of my truck. I’ve replaced steering components, hubs, and cv axles on similar Chevy models. The alignment sheet does not show the rear alignment specs because it is a solid axle and there is nothing to align. Truck drives fine now after they tweaked the toe but the steering is turned to the right. I was more worried about my tires as they were getting chewed up due to the misaligned toe. When I replace the rear inner axle shaft I will update you if anything is bent. I assume my pulsing brake pedal is because of the bent shaft as well.

 

[Jjbiskup]

He's saying the axle shaft on the right side is bent at the flange. Easy enough to rip it out and stuff a new one in, probably with a new seal and maybe a new bearing.

Lucky if the right-side wheels aren't bent, too.

Previous alignment shop is staffed with idiots. Don't go back there except to demand a refund. Why is the "Before" toe measurements better than the "Current" toe measurement? Did they make the toe WORSE?

As said--there's multiple potential bent parts up front, (too many to name again.) According to the results sheet posted, the rear axle is not square to the frame, either--but I'll let alignment experts determine how important that is. I don't know what the allowable tolerance is for that--but a tenth of a degree "seems" like "way too much" to me.

IF (big IF) I'm reading that alignment sheet correctly, the axle twist is in the direction that would require right-turn correction at the steering wheel, just as described (although perhaps not as much as described.)

The toe measurements are not better than after. The after looks worse because I assume they had the steering wheel straight and the wheels were turned slightly to the left, the toe before had a .4 degrees difference between the tires. Now there is a .06 difference.

 

[GrimsterGMC]

So the rear axle is bent and the flange is out of true so that would make the drum out of true as well causing the brake pulsing. Replacing that would be an easy first step in eliminating your problems. Then move to the front. If you took a hard hit sideways in the front then I wouldn't be surprised if the chassis rail has moved inwards where the lower control arm attaches to it. All that energy has to go somewhere.

 

[Jjbiskup]

So the rear axle is bent and the flange is out of true so that would make the drum out of true as well causing the brake pulsing. Replacing that would be an easy first step in eliminating your problems. Then move to the front. If you took a hard hit sideways in the front then I wouldn't be surprised if the chassis rail has moved inwards where the lower control arm attaches to it. All that energy has to go somewhere.

Yes I figured that was where my pulsing was coming from. My 2 steelie wheels were bent to hell as the rear one wobbled like it had 1 lug nut holding it on. The front one only the edge was damaged but it still wasn’t holding air. Is it possible that the tie rod simply just skipped a couple threads?

 

[Hipster]

I got the truck for 700, put a new battery and interior in it costing a total of 350. I referred to the “rear inner axle” as to not confuse anybody with the actual axle tube. I’m not trying to spend hundreds of more dollars on a truck that is worth less than a grand to me. The truck has little to no rust issues as well. I looked over the alignment sheet and it seems to appear that everything is within spec according to documents I found online. I have basic knowledge on all the parts of my truck. I’ve replaced steering components, hubs, and cv axles on similar Chevy models. The alignment sheet does not show the rear alignment specs because it is a solid axle and there is nothing to align. Truck drives fine now after they tweaked the toe but the steering is turned to the right. I was more worried about my tires as they were getting chewed up due to the misaligned toe. When I replace the rear inner axle shaft I will update you if anything is bent. I assume my pulsing brake pedal is because of the bent shaft as well.

There ya go, a better explaination then fragmented sentences and ideas. Most of the guys going to offer help are car guys. No need to dumb it down for their benefit but clearly the alignment is not in spec.

 

[Hipster]

Is it possible that the tie rod simply just skipped a couple threads?

No, like said by multiple other people, centering the steering is a rudimentary part of an alignment. This makes sure box and idler/drag link are centered in the vehicle before going further. You're off .06 not .6 side to side/toe. The guys you went to didn't even get that correct.

 

[Jjbiskup]

No, like said centering the steering is a rudimentary part of an alignment, your off .06 not .6

Might I add that while I have the steering wheel straight the bolt for the steering shaft is straight up and down, the pitman arm also appears to be turned 90 degrees/ straight when I have the steering wheel straight. I inspected the tie rods and is it normal to not have an even amount of thread reveal on both sides of the adjusting sleeve? Ie: one side has about 3 inches of thread while the other side has no thread?

 

[Hipster]

Might I add that while I have the steering wheel straight the bolt for the steering shaft is straight up and down, the pitman arm also appears to be turned 90 degrees/ straight when I have the steering wheel straight. I inspected the tie rods and is it normal to not have an even amount of thread reveal on both sides of the adjusting sleeve? Ie: one side has about 3 inches of thread while the other side has no thread?

You need somebody competent to look at this if you are not sure. You don't take chances with with steering. suspension, or brakes. What you are describing doesn't sound normal at all and you can end up buried in a guard rail or family of 4 in a Honda. You need competency and definitive answers. Usually thread reveal is pretty even as it allows the same range of adjustment on both sides. The more you describe, the more it's evident you're mucking with everyone.