Things are getting ugly.. What would you do??

[GoToGuy]

Replace the lower arm. Install with new bushings. Install with new replacement hardware. Welding with unknown, unseen damage ; self defeating results.
Word of caution, you now have known damage. Murphy's law states " known worn or damaged parts will always fail, far from home, when you forgot your wallet, and dropped your phone broke screen, to look under hood".

 

[Hipster]

Murphy's law states " known worn or damaged parts will always fail, far from home, when you forgot your wallet, and dropped your phone broke screen, to look under hood".

^^^ facts lol

My description would also included 3am, pouring rain, 6 feet of snow etc.

 

[GoToGuy]

Like today it was 107° F.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Frame swap? No. Get the thickest grade 8 washer you can find and weld it right over where the hole should be. Check the inside of the mounting point to see if the metal inside is chewed up. If so, weld up the grooves as best you can and file the welds smooth. When you install the control arm, the frame should pinch the inner sleeve of the bushing, and you want it to pinch it tight. Otherwise the bolt can wiggle and chew it up again.

 

[johnckhall]

I would consider a frame swap rather than throw parts at a known problem that may never suit your needs. It could be an endless money pit chasing all the out of whack components.

 

[someotherguy]

Just go to a shop that has a frame alignment and see if the frame is or is not ok. The lower CAs can be found at the junk yards, the uppers are available brand new.

If the frame ain't terrible, upper and lower CA's (at least on that side) new CA bushings, ball joints, etc are all available. The truck looks like its a C1500 rather than a K1500?

Oh, and check the CA mounts on the frame, too.

Yep, he did say 2WD. The UCA's and LCA's are available new.

OP you're in Memphis - about 100 miles East of you I can recommend a shop that does paint, body, frame work, and more.. if you're interested. At least find out of the frame is outta whack before spending any more money/effort.

Richard

 

[alpinecrick]

The OEM upper BJ rivits are made of Kryptonite. A air chisel will go through a lot of chisels and enough air to float the Titanic. Grinding them off is one thing, punching and/or drilling out the remaining shank of the rivit is still a royal PIA undertaking. M42 Colbalt drill bits are your friend.

The big "XL" ball joint press available on ebay and Amazon gives a lot more clearance than the parts store presses and makes getting the lower BJ out on both 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks a LOT easier. It also can be used to press out the CA bushings with a bit of heat--just don't heat the rubber to melting point or it will pop/explode and require skin grafts......

 

[johnckhall]

I’m rehabbing my front end before new tie rods/shocks/alignment. I almost ordered new upper CA ball joints until I read how hard it was to remove the factory rivets. I think I’ll just replace the whole UCA assembly in the future. Seems a whole lot easier.

 

[mwilliams55555]

Rivets are not that bad to get out of the upper control arm, grinder and a good punch and a hammer and a little patience is all you need

 

[NCchris]

Rivets are not that bad to get out of the upper control arm, grinder and a good punch and a hammer and a little patience is all you need

Air chisel for the win!