The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

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AK49BWL

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Now believe it or not, the power vs no power rods are actually the same. They all have the provision for the actuator whether it's there or not. You could probably get away with just pulling the rod out of the actuator and rolling on lol
 

Bacon_Drizzle

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Don’t know if this issue is small enough to be here or I should make a new thread but here’s my issue. I have a 96 k2500 gmc suburban and my number 9 fuse blows as soon as I turn on my headlights. It cuts out my instrument panel lights and my taillights. Turn signals work, hazard lights work and brake lights work. Is there any common spots for the wiring to get shorted out or something
 

SUBURBAN5

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Don’t know if this issue is small enough to be here or I should make a new thread but here’s my issue. I have a 96 k2500 gmc suburban and my number 9 fuse blows as soon as I turn on my headlights. It cuts out my instrument panel lights and my taillights. Turn signals work, hazard lights work and brake lights work. Is there any common spots for the wiring to get shorted out or something

Sounds like a major short. When did this first occur?
 

AK49BWL

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Don’t know if this issue is small enough to be here or I should make a new thread but here’s my issue. I have a 96 k2500 gmc suburban and my number 9 fuse blows as soon as I turn on my headlights. It cuts out my instrument panel lights and my taillights. Turn signals work, hazard lights work and brake lights work. Is there any common spots for the wiring to get shorted out or something
So you have parklights and all that before turning on the headlights, but the parklights fuse blows when you turn the headlights on? That's very strange because the two circuits, aside from sharing the switch, are mostly independent.. Almost sounds like the switch itself is shorting out internally to me. If the headlights were shorted, then the 50A Lighting fuse in the underhood fuse panel should blow, OR the headlight switch's internal circuit breaker would trip. I would try another switch before sorting through all the wiring tho, this sounds very much like a switch contact going where it's not supposed to.
 

Bacon_Drizzle

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Sounds like a major short. When did this first occur?
I got the truck around December 2018 and as far as I can recall they were working. Looking at pictures from when I first got it I noticed that there was a trailer connection attached to the hitch but pictures from a month show that it somehow mysteriously disappeared so I looked as much as I could around the hitch and bumper but I don’t see any signs of the trailer cable being ripped or cut out.
 

Bacon_Drizzle

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So you have parklights and all that before turning on the headlights, but the parklights fuse blows when you turn the headlights on? That's very strange because the two circuits, aside from sharing the switch, are mostly independent.. Almost sounds like the switch itself is shorting out internally to me. If the headlights were shorted, then the 50A Lighting fuse in the underhood fuse panel should blow, OR the headlight switch's internal circuit breaker would trip. I would try another switch before sorting through all the wiring tho, this sounds very much like a switch contact going where it's not supposed to.
Yea it’s fuse number 9 which is PARK LPS and during the day it’s fine cause I don’t have it switched onto the headlights and I’ll put a fresh fuse and it’s all good but the moment I switch on the headlights the fuse blows and my taillights/instrument panel lights all stop working. I’ve already tried a new switch from Amazon and it didn’t work. I removed and disconnected both taillights and tried that but still blew a fuse. My turn signals, brake lights, hazard lights and headlights all still work it’s just the taillights/instrument panel lights that don’t
 

SUBURBAN5

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I got the truck around December 2018 and as far as I can recall they were working. Looking at pictures from when I first got it I noticed that there was a trailer connection attached to the hitch but pictures from a month show that it somehow mysteriously disappeared so I looked as much as I could around the hitch and bumper but I don’t see any signs of the trailer cable being ripped or cut out.

Behind the gas tank under the bumper theres a plug. Make sure its connected. What people do is they have an adapter that plugs in the middle. To remove it you just have to unplug it and reconnect the harness
 

Bacon_Drizzle

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Behind the gas tank under the bumper theres a plug. Make sure its connected. What people do is they have an adapter that plugs in the middle. To remove it you just have to unplug it and reconnect the harness
I’m about 95% sure that that is connected. I’ll take pictures when I get home but I’m pretty sure I know what you’re talking about
 
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