Let’s talk VOLTAGE

[RawbDidIt]

Fusible link is different then a fuse. It's a lower gage wire cut at a specific length that burns up in the event of over current. Same function as a fuse, but it looks like regular wire. Peel back the cable shroud and you'll see the different gage. On my truck there's a ground strap on the frame rail next to the starter, grounds to the block next to the starter. You can do 6ga, but if you ever change your mind, you'll end up just redoing all that work. If you're definitely never running sound or aftermarket lights, 6ga is fine, but in my mind the price difference between 4ga and 6ga is more than fair compared to the performance. That being said, I'm also running sound and planning for aftermarket lights. 6ga will run anything that alternator will, so if you're never going over the 110A mark, you'll be fine, but you'll want to put a fuse in on the power side between battery and alternator.

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[NO4NSHT]

Fusible link is different then a fuse. It's a lower gage wire cut at a specific length that burns up in the event of over current. Same function as a fuse, but it looks like regular wire. Peel back the cable shroud and you'll see the different gage. On my truck there's a ground strap on the frame rail next to the starter, grounds to the block next to the starter. You can do 6ga, but if you ever change your mind, you'll end up just redoing all that work. If you're definitely never running sound or aftermarket lights, 6ga is fine, but in my mind the price difference between 4ga and 6ga is more than fair compared to the performance. That being said, I'm also running sound and planning for aftermarket lights. 6ga will run anything that alternator will, so if you're never going over the 110A mark, you'll be fine, but you'll want to put a fuse in on the power side between battery and alternator.

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Well the 6 gauge I had was free I didn't pay for it I mean I'd prefer to run for gauge myself but this was just stuff that I had laying around the shop and garage and probably never ever going to get used for anything else so for the time being I just ran 1 6 gauge wire to my alternator and then one for my negative ground to the body

 

[RawbDidIt]

IIRC the OEM wire is already 6ga.

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[PlayingWithTBI]

You can always run parallel 6ga wires.

 

[Frank Enstein]

95 % of my electrical calls are bad grounds and bad connections. I recommend the main battery cables both positive and negative be connected to the starter. The positive goes there anyway so run the ground along side. I then jump a 10 gauge (or larger) wire from the same starter mounting bolt that the neg cable is on to the engine block on bare shiny metal.

I have never seen an alternator bracket or a frame rail start an engine. If it doesn't start it really doesn't matter if the radio plays. I then run a ground wire to the engine block from the Alternator case, computer case if equipped, both cylinder heads, the distributor body, the O2 sensors, the firewall, the radiator core support where the headlights are grounded, and finally the frame. If possible I tin the frame with good solder for a reliable connection because steel isn't a very good conductor compared to copper and this allows corrosion protection and a larger contact area. I use 10 gauge wire for this which is overkill but builds in reliability. If you say grounding the heads is silly it can gain 5 to 6 horsepower from 2 pieces of wire. Always check the grounds first whenever you have an electrical gremlin pop up. Often it's the cause.

Now this is what I know. What I don't know is how to fix the lying^^&%#&* gauge in the dash. Voltage is steady at the battery terminals as well as the alternator weather it's loaded or not. The longer I drive the lower the voltage gets. I think I will start with the main feed from the battery to the distribution block but I don't know what else to try.

BTW what are the Big 3/4 upgrade?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

BTW what are the Big 3/4 upgrade?

Here's the thread where @5vortec7 is making "big 3" kits.
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/big-3-and-dual-battery-kits.41818/

 

[Frank Enstein]

Thankyewvurrymuch!

 

[Wh4t3v3rs]

Just throwing my hat in the ring. I've got some pretty good experience with the 12 volt world. My I suggest this. It seems to me that you have taken all the steps you can under the hood, BUT all the instruments have their own ground under the dash. The drop in voltage at the volt meter under load could be a gauge ground issue, not a battery vehicle charging issue.....

 

[Busted Knuckle]

I would remove, inspect, and re-install the IP cluster to see of the contacts have become intermittent. There is also a connector where the IP harness joins the ECM harness, and of course the ECM harness to ECM connectors. Any of these intermittent could do that. Ground of IP would be a good thing to check.

Aside: Watch out for leaking battery acid. The side terminals are notorious. My '95 leaked and the wire (#6 OE) wicked the acid all the way back to the fuse and relay center in front of the driver. Also corroded that stud. I replaced it with a #4 cable and cleaned up the stud (which is reversible). Converted the battery connections to military style top terminals.

View media item 32365

 

[HotrodZ06]

My latest project had the terminals in the dash connector for the cluster smashed down. It had a low reading voltmeter then noticed half the cluster wasnt working pulled it adjusted the terminals to make good contact and everything works great now. May be it will help your problem as well.