I need to buy a scope...

[stutaeng]

Does anyone use one? I thought the vintage Snap On Vantage Pro has one? I looked and can't seem to find one locally or eBay.

I'm thinking if getting the Autel Maxiscope. I don't know anything about them, have just have seen them being used for diagnostics... relatively compression test, checking for PWM stuff, CAN stuff, etc. Seems like a good tool to have. I'm just a DIY'er, but lately have been doing any/all troubleshooting and mechanic work myself on my vehicles, mostly GMT 800/900, but now I have this issue:

I've got a 13 Chrysler Town and Country with the 3.6 that's not charging and can't determine why...I already replaced the alternator. I suspect ECU, but want to be sure without a doubt. Taking the opportunity to expand my diagnostics capabilities on the bit newer vehicles.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

How new is the 3.6? Does it have the start/stop dual battery?

 

[stutaeng]

How new is the 3.6? Does it have the start/stop dual battery?

It's a 2013. No, no start/stop...just a single battery.

The alternator is PWM controlled by the ECU is what I believe. Need to figure out if the ECU is sending signal (or not) to get charged.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I know on the ones with start stop if the secondary battery goes too low it causes all kinds of issues.

Any codes?

 

[stutaeng]

I know on the ones with start stop if the secondary battery goes too low it causes all kinds of issues.

Any codes?

No codes. I had an issue with battery getting drained intermittently last year. I bought and installed the little fuse adapter they sell to bypass the TIPM fuel pump relay, and that did the trick.

Then last Spring it died on the road with my wife and the kids. A guy pulled over and messed with battery terminals and it restarted and was able to get home.

When I looked at it the battery light was on. I told my wife she was going to just start driving the Express Van we had bought last Fall, after changing the alternator and messing around for like 3 days with the Chrysler and the thing has been parked for like 4 months now. Need to get it back to grocery shopping and doctor visits duties. The full size van is too tall to fit in parking garages.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I hear ya on the parking garage dilemma! We've had to go in several garages in the Medical Center recently, and the Burb barely fits. Height wise and length wise too. Too many tight turns. Definitely not going there with the big truck.....

 

[Schurkey]

I have two 'scopes.

The one I actually use is an ancient Snap-On Counselor II MT3000. The MT3000A has some additional protection circuitry, and if used with the exhaust gas analyzer, will show "Lambda". Otherwise, they look and work identically.

It's a true, full-featured automotive diagnostic digital storage 'scope. Needs various accessories for some features--various ignition pick-ups, high-ampere and low-ampere current probes, vacuum sensor, etc. Does cylinder shorting, primary and secondary ignition waveforms, alternator wave forms, along with generic leads for other electrical testing.

I got mine used on eBay for about 1/12 original price, including shipping. I don't know what current pricing is--I got mine a long time ago.

Very recommended--if you have room for a bigass cabinet with an old-style CRT unit parked on top.


I also bought a "Matco"-branded (made by OTC) handheld 'scope with a hateful rechargeable battery. Used it once or twice. Portable, handy, twenty years newer than the Snappy. Again, this was an eBay "closeout" of discontinued merchandise. Support for this thing ended in...2008, maybe. It was supposed to be "updateable" for newer vehicle "known good" sensor waveforms and such, but Bosch bought OTC and has been screwing the customers ever since. OTC is a four-letter word to me.

Amazon is still selling leftover OTC-branded 'scopes like mine, but you'd be bat-shiit crazy to pay what they're asking. I think I paid $200--$300 for mine (and that was still too much.)
www.amazon.com/OTC-3840F-2-Channel-Automotive-Scope/dp/B002YK7W3C

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Both my 'scopes are old enough to smoke. No doubt there's newer/better/cheaper stuff available; but be sure to get the accessories needed to be genuinely useful--starting with a low-amps current probe for electric motor diagnosis; and a high-amps current probe for alternator/starter diagnosis.

Take a look at what www.aeswave.com has to offer.

 

[Pinger]

I've got a 13 Chrysler Town and Country with the 3.6 that's not charging and can't determine why...I already replaced the alternator.

Did you match it to the VIN?
Smart (owned by Mercedes) alternators if not matched to VIN didn't work. Not saying your Chrysler will be the same (or that you didn't match correctly) but Chrysler were affiliated to Mercedes....

 

[someotherguy]

Have you tried reading up on the issue on Mopar-related forums? The fact that you already had some trouble with the TIPM and had to work around it, is a red flag to me. Some of the Mopar stuff is notorious for TIPM issues. You may have already discovered you can get a "rebuilt" one for $500+...

Richard

 

[stutaeng]

Have you tried reading up on the issue on Mopar-related forums? The fact that you already had some trouble with the TIPM and had to work around it, is a red flag to me. Some of the Mopar stuff is notorious for TIPM issues. You may have already discovered you can get a "rebuilt" one for $500+...

Richard

I only looked specifically on the minivan forums. I forget the 3.6 was also used on cars and Jeeps. Several guys were saying only buy Mopar alternators because the ones from the parts store are bad, others had wiring issues or ECU. Wiring checked out ok on mine. Yeah that TIPM design sucks. This thing only has 80k and I had just put new tires and paid off, so I need to fix it.

No real good options for shops that are into electronics around here. Even sometimes dealerships seem to be parts changers, based on what I read.