High output alternator

[DallasTahoe]

Yes, I use a solenoid that keeps them separated when the key is off and it joins them once you turn the key on


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[MSCustoms]

Maybe I am not too good about figuring out how to find things, but how do I find the Alternator bracket build link/thread? Ken k.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/mscustoms-90-ecsb-blue-beast.15920/

Its on the last page of my build, i never did a write up for it

 

[RawbDidIt]

Yes, I use a solenoid that keeps them separated when the key is off and it joins them once you turn the key on


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You did say that, that makes sense then. I was thinking of using diodes if I decide to go dual battery and run after market accessories off of a deep cycle. Run diodes off of separate alternator charging leads keeping the two loads as separate as possible on a single alternator, has anybody had success with this?

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[94burbk1500]

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/mscustoms-90-ecsb-blue-beast.15920/

Its on the last page of my build, i never did a write up for it

What did that bracket come out of?

 

[JackE]

I have been told when you are running two batteries in sequence, they should be a matched set. I have my second battery running through a continuous duty solenoid so when the key is off, the two are separated, key on they are joined for charging purpose. I also have a small push button connected to the relay powered by the second battery in case the main battery is dead enough that it won't energize the relay to engage the second battery. I added that after I had that exact problem with the first battery dying. GM's biggest fault with these trucks was the pennies they saved using wiring that was too small to handle the loads that we like putting on them. Upgrading wire gauge is essential for the kind of performance I am expecting from my rig.

 

[RawbDidIt]

The diodes are meant keep them completely isolated so the problems that arise from not having a matched set *should* be eliminated. Can anybody confirm?

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[DallasTahoe]

I have been told when you are running two batteries in sequence, they should be a matched set. I have my second battery running through a continuous duty solenoid so when the key is off, the two are separated, key on they are joined for charging purpose. I also have a small push button connected to the relay powered by the second battery in case the main battery is dead enough that it won't energize the relay to engage the second battery. I added that after I had that exact problem with the first battery dying. GM's biggest fault with these trucks was the pennies they saved using wiring that was too small to handle the loads that we like putting on them. Upgrading wire gauge is essential for the kind of performance I am expecting from my rig.

I’ve been wanting to do that, how did you wire in the push button? I have switched I’m sure I could use one of those


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[ME TOO 2]

Big three is a commonly used reference to upgrading stock wiring. Power wire from alternator to battery, power wire from battery to distribution box in engine, ground wire from engine block to ground, ground wire from body to ground, and for kicks you can also upgrade your ground from the alternator case to the negative battery terminal.

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Thank you, RawbDidIt
Most helpful info.
I will start with the grounds.
When upgrading them do I want to take each one back directly to the battery negative side or do I run new chassis ground from the battery and then ground all others to the chassis?
Apologies if this is n odd questiion.
My experience wiring vacuum tube electronics has taught me that when wiring grounds the best method is the Star Ground (all grounds to a central point); and I wonder if that applies to automotive electrics as well
Best
Ed

 

[DallasTahoe]

The diodes are meant keep them completely isolated so the problems that arise from not having a matched set *should* be eliminated. Can anybody confirm?

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I’ve never heard of anybody trying to use diodes. I know where your going with it but it doesn’t quite work that way. Your best bet would be to use a solenoid to separate them like I have. You have to use a matched set. If you don’t you’ll burn up the batteries, either one or both. The alternator doesn’t know which battery needs charging it just senses that voltage is low so it starts sending power. If your batteries are different brands, different cca’s different types etc. it will continue to send power based on the draw. Different batteries have different charge rates so battery A charges pretty quick, while battery B takes longer, and because of that battery A gets constantly overcharged and goes bad. That’s the easiest way I can explain it. So always have matching age/type/brand/CCA batteries.


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[JackE]

It's a very low amp push button. One side to the aux battery, the other to the hot side of the relay. It only takes a second to trigger the relay, then there is enough power in the loop to keep the relay closed under it's own power.