High output alternator

[RawbDidIt]

No I wouldn’t do 250, that’s wayyy too much especially considering if your alternator did fail do you really want it to be able to pump 250 amps through your electrical system that wasn’t meant for that kind of power?? Do yourself a favor and use at maximum a 175amp mega fuse that’s what came from the factory, otherwise you run the risk of burning your rig down should something go wrong, besides if you have everything on there is almost no way your using 250amps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's the point of the 225A alternator if I'm fusing it well below the rated output?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[DallasTahoe]

What's the point of the 225A alternator if I'm fusing it well below the rated output?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Well if you have it fused at 175 before your 6awg cable that goes to the main fuse box you should be good, the factory fuse box wasn’t made to take 225 amps, hence why the factory used a 175 amp mega fuse. Really All of your other equipment should be running off of a second battery. I have two batteries and everything that is not original to my truck is running off of that second battery, for one I don’t have to worry about ending up with a dead battery and can’t start my truck, and two, if there is an issue my trucks wiring won’t be affected. Ultimately, it’s your truck, and it’s just my opinion, just don’t want to see someone’s pride and joy messed up is all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

True, but I'm planning on running 0ga to the disty, which can handle >200A. The whole point is to upgrade all the wiring prior to the distribution box, everything else should be properly fused at the factory specs. I don't see what's unsafe about this setup given I do the writing upgrades I mentioned before.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[kennythewelder]

True, but I'm planning on running 0ga to the disty, which can handle >200A. The whole point is to upgrade all the wiring prior to the distribution box, everything else should be properly fused at the factory specs. I don't see what's unsafe about this setup given I do the writing upgrades I mentioned before.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Thats pretty much what the custom shop where I bought my fuse, fuse holder, and connectors, told me. Your running only 1 large charging wire directly to the battery. All of the other large wires are all grounds. You are giving the alt a bigger flow of electrons with the bigger wire so that the alt can recharge the battery quicker and easier, without trying to flow a large amount of current through a small wire. Doing that (trying to flow a lot of current through a small wire) is where the heat and issues come in. The power draw through the rest on the electrical system is still going to be the same. My amps power supply is wired directly to my battery, and is fused separately. My 4 high mod, also goes directly to the battery, with there own fuses. And my E-fans, again directly to the battery with there own fuses. When I showed my set up to the sound shop guy, this is the same way the wire there mods. The only mod I did not have when I did my big 3 was the electric fans. I knew I needed a better charging system.

 

[DallasTahoe]

True, but I'm planning on running 0ga to the disty, which can handle >200A. The whole point is to upgrade all the wiring prior to the distribution box, everything else should be properly fused at the factory specs. I don't see what's unsafe about this setup given I do the writing upgrades I mentioned before.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Well all I can say is that my dual batt setup has all 0 AWG cables for positive and negative, a Stinger Solenoid and my extra equipment is on batt #2 with a bluesea negative and positive fuse block and big fuses in between batteries and all my factory stuff stays on battery #1 and I have zero issues. I’ll post a couple of pics tomorrow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

I think what you're saying is that the fuse prevents the alternator from sending too much current through the fuse blocks' feed wire. I don't think you saw the post where I mentioned I was upgrading all of my wiring to 0ga with the exception of the engine block (still not sure if I need to upgrade past 4ga if I ground the alternator casing to the battery using 0ga, although it's likely I'll have the extra wire so I'll probably just do it anyway). Without upgrading the 6ga feed wire, I completely agree with you, but if everything directly connected to the battery can carry >200A, then fusing it to 165A will cause a blown fuse under "reasonable" use. Different setups for different purposes, I don't run anything on my truck with the engine off, and the alternator will keep up with the demand, so I don't need a second battery. In all reality I should probably fuse the fuse box feed as well, and I'll probably fuse that to 120A since all other loads will be fused themselves and directly connected to the battery. Am I missing something, or is the primary concern overloading the stock wiring?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[DallasTahoe]

Yea that was my only concern was the factory wiring the rest of the stuff should be good as long as it’s fused


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

I might go dual batteries when I get my lights, but I have no plans on running my sound system with the truck off. Do you use a deep cycle for your second battery?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[DallasTahoe]

I might go dual batteries when I get my lights, but I have no plans on running my sound system with the truck off. Do you use a deep cycle for your second battery?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

No just a standard battery, it’s best if you do decide to do it, to buy both batteries new at the same time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

No just a standard battery, it’s best if you do decide to do it, to buy both batteries new at the same time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was under the impression that other than the alternator the two systems were completely independent of each other is there a crossover in there that allows the second battery to start the vehicle in an emergency?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk