Managed to up heater output.

[Moleman]

Oh I just thought the normal range for an obs heater was lower. I ain't driven this thing in a few months. I was daily driving the z34 untill that junk quad cam 3400 blew up.

 

[someotherguy]

Oh I just thought the normal range for an obs heater was lower. I ain't driven this thing in a few months. I was daily driving the z34 untill that junk quad cam 3400 blew up.

Hot water fed straight from the intake, should be very close to engine operating temperature. Expect maybe a little loss from cool air blowing across it from the fan.

Richard

 

[Schurkey]

Oh I just thought the normal range for an obs heater was lower.

No, these trucks will happily roast you right out of the cab if the heater is turned to maximum heat.

Ambient temp does play a part in vent temps. Extreme cold weather will drop the vent temp somewhat. But 150--180 is what I expect to see.

My truck has a 205 thermostat in it, I bet my vent temps are even higher.

I was daily driving the z34 untill that junk quad cam 3400 blew up.

Junk? I've got two of 'em in cars, and two more "core" engines in the barn. I just love 'em. They're essentially an overgrown 2.8L/3.1L, with two or three unique issues.

The timing belt is recommended for change at 60K miles, which seems kinda frequent. I've heard of folks going 100K, but the usual story is that the belt then failed and caused heartache. Belt changes are not that tough, but they are intimidating the first time. You don't "have" to have the Special Tool kit to change the belt IF it didn't break or slip. The Special Tools are recommended if the cam timing did get screwed-up, though.

The cylinder heads seem to have a "soft spot" that allows the head gasket to lose clamping force and slide out-of-position, leading to coolant in #1 or #6 or both. My '93 popped a head gasket, when I removed the other head, the gasket was showing distress in the same place.

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I had the heads planed .015, cleaned-up the block which had minor etching, and reassembled with new gaskets.

An annoying issue is an oil-leak from what used to be the distributor O-ring, but is now just an oil-pump drive. The original neoprene O-ring gets rock-hard and then the oil leak looks like a rear-main seal from the oil drooling down the back of the engine/bellhousing area. GM has an updated Viton gasket, and most guys add an ordinary Chevy distributor gasket as "insurance" against future oil leaks there. Problem is, the oil pump drive won't come all the way out of the block with the rear head in place. So unless you're removing the head, the best you can do is to split a distributor gasket, poke it carefully under the flange of the oil pump drive, and seal it with your favorite gasket dressing.

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[Moleman]

No, these trucks will happily roast you right out of the cab if the heater is turned to maximum heat.

Ambient temp does play a part in vent temps. Extreme cold weather will drop the vent temp somewhat. But 150--180 is what I expect to see.

My truck has a 205 thermostat in it, I bet my vent temps are even higher.


Junk? I've got two of 'em in cars, and two more "core" engines in the barn. I just love 'em. They're essentially an overgrown 2.8L/3.1L, with two or three unique issues.

The timing belt is recommended for change at 60K miles, which seems kinda frequent. I've heard of folks going 100K, but the usual story is that the belt then failed and caused heartache. Belt changes are not that tough, but they are intimidating the first time. You don't "have" to have the Special Tool kit to change the belt IF it didn't break or slip. The Special Tools are recommended if the cam timing did get screwed-up, though.

The cylinder heads seem to have a "soft spot" that allows the head gasket to lose clamping force and slide out-of-position, leading to coolant in #1 or #6 or both. My '93 popped a head gasket, when I removed the other head, the gasket was showing distress in the same place.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I had the heads planed .015, cleaned-up the block which had minor etching, and reassembled with new gaskets.

An annoying issue is an oil-leak from what used to be the distributor O-ring, but is now just an oil-pump drive. The original neoprene O-ring gets rock-hard and then the oil leak looks like a rear-main seal from the oil drooling down the back of the engine/bellhousing area. GM has an updated Viton gasket, and most guys add an ordinary Chevy distributor gasket as "insurance" against future oil leaks there. Problem is, the oil pump drive won't come all the way out of the block with the rear head in place. So unless you're removing the head, the best you can do is to split a distributor gasket, poke it carefully under the flange of the oil pump drive, and seal it with your favorite gasket dressing.

You must be registered for see images attach

So check this out I did change the timing belt out on it it lasted about 40k miles and it jumped time and dropped a valve.

And yes I did match up the timing marks too the T. But none of that matters Ive got a 3800 supercharged motor for it. I'm not messing with that quad cam. Love the 3100 it's bullet proof. 2.8 was in a third gen I seen once but I never drove it. I had that 91 z28 with the 350 TPI and 305 heads didn't like it.