* solved * (bad egr) Stinky Exhaust and Struggling to hold idle when warmed up

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JustinJ94FSB

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1994 Blazer K1500 5.7 TBI. 138,500 miles.

The issue i am currently having:

Once vehicle is at operating temp, when i come to a stop sign the RPMs like to drop down and it catches itself before stalling but the RPMS sit way low. like the needle is down on the lowest possible mark on the tach. I have not checked digitally the RPMs. It also idles rough obviously cause the RPMs are so low. Also i notice a stinky sulfur smell from the exhaust.

This was happening before and after replacing the cat.(i have read that new cats can stink for a while which is why i say that) I used a IR thermometer to check temps going into and coming out of the cat and noticed it was almost 100+ degrees hotter going into the cat than coming out. I took the cat off and put a borescope cam in there and notice it was cracked in there, just decided to replace it. Didnt change any symptoms.

TLDR-

my truck has had issues with engine running that progressively got worse and eventually it left me stranded and had to be towed home. After poking around i discovered the heater hose fitting on the intake was leaking, and the coolant was somehow getting up under my distributor cap and had been corroding the contacts in there for probably a long time. I replaced the cap and rotor and the truck fired up no problem. But i still had something else going on. Idling problems, bogging, etc. Since it isnt my daily driver i have been just working out kinks as i have time. So i decided to address the leaky fitting which of course broke off the second i made eye contact with it. No specialty tools worked, had to pull the intake to get the fitting threads out.

During this intake manifold job i did the following:

Replaced oil pressure switch (gm genuine)
Replaced ignition coil (gm genuine)
Replaced spark plugs (ac delco oem)
Replaced ECT sensor (duralast)
Replaced MAP sensor (duralast)
Replaced IAC valve (gm genuine)
Replaced PCV valve 3 times (duralast, napa, and something else)
Replaced Thermostat/rubber seal (ac delco oem)
Replaced Air filter
Replaced Fuel Filter (gm genuine)
Replaced one-piece welded y-pipe/catalytic converter (walker)
Replaced O2 Sensor (gm genuine)
Replaced Harmonic Balancer/dampener whatever (gm genuine)
Cleaned Throttle Body thoroughly with throttle body cleaner and Replaced all gaskets with fel-pro
Replaced all other gaskets with fel-pro (intake, egr, throttle body to intake, etc etc)
Filled tank with new gas ~60 miles of driving ago.
Changed coolant, oil, filters, etc etc
Set the engine timing with the timing-correction connector disconnected, and got it dead on perfect, and then connected the plug back in.
Checked injector spray pattern several times, even recorded a 920 frames per second slow motion video of them, they have a very uniform and clean cone pattern. (i know that doesn't completely rule it out)
when i did the intake i tap/die all the bolts and holes and also used fine sand paper to scrub down all of the grounds for things like the ECT and whatnot. I used thread sealer on the bolts. I am doing research on symptoms of various parts and how they impact the vehicles operation when they are failing/failed. Each thing i feel like could be the next likely culprit, i replace it, and nothing changes.

The truck is running way better now than it has for a long time. It runs and drives like i put a whole new engine in or something.

sorry for very long post, ive been doing a ton of stuff trying to fix this before coming here for help, i like to learn but at this point im at a deadend. I literally dont know what could possibly be wrong anymore.
Its very possible i have done more and couldnt remember when writing this.

thanks for any guidance or advice on my next course of action!
 

scott2093

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Any codes?
You didn't mention EGR..



this is a good one from there..Should have rough idle symptom checks etc...
 
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GoToGuy

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Some distributor caps have a problem with venting, condensation sits inside causing corrosion. SB fix is to remove the screens to allow air circulation. Your tune up fixed that probably. Did you do any diagnostics with a scanner? You may have changed $$ parts that were not necessarily due for replacement, a lot of guessing. Eventually you will guess correctly but at what cost?
Which is it ? Runs like new engine or still has a problem .
What does the problem appear to you as? Engine runs like ______ ? At what conditions? Idle, cruise, hard acceleration?
 

JustinJ94FSB

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Any codes?
You didn't mention EGR..
No codes. The EGR looked pretty normal when i had it off and the diaphragm felt normal, it was not easy, nor too hard to push. I have also disconnected the vacuum line to the EGR while idling and it doesnt change anything. I dont know how to diagnose it beyond that but im open to ideas.

Did you do any diagnostics with a scanner?
I dont have an obd1 scanner, i guess i thought that was more of a obd2 thing. Are there scanners out there that are priced for common folk you could recommend? Ive only jumped the 2 pins on this rig to see the blinking check engine light, which currently there are no codes beyond the standard code 12
Which is it ? Runs like new engine or still has a problem
When driving it feels tip top shape. good smooth acceleration and interior engine sound, no vibration, hesitations, or other issues. If i never had to come to a stop i wouldnt know there was anything wrong.
.
What does the problem appear to you as? Engine runs like ______ ? At what conditions? Idle, cruise, hard acceleration?
ive noticed the problem only after the engine reaches operating temp. At that point i can guarantee that when i pull up and stop, the idle will dip, sometimes the needle even goes below the lowest mark on the tach and bounces back to the bottom line again and sometimes it will just drop down to about 700 and over the course of 3 or 4 seconds will slowly lose the struggle to maintain that idle, and it will eventually drop down to the lowest mark on the tach and it idles poorly. And every time i stop i can smell sulfur exhaust. like rotten eggs. But i can drive it home and its fine when im moving. I have not taken it very far from home, far enough to get up to 55mph and operating temp, but no more than 5 miles away. (live on a country road)
 

JustinJ94FSB

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@scott2093
just downloaded the 3 manuals that were listed for 1994, i will look through them, and also ill check out that one regarding the emissions electrical diagnosis. Thank you for those links.
 

Erik the Awful

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Vacuum leak. Your engine runs richer when cold, and that will hide a vacuum leak.

You've already replaced the intake gaskets, so we'll assume for now that's good.

With it warmed up and running like crap, park it and clamp off the brake booster hose. If it smooths out, your brake booster diaphragm is bad.

Check your EGR system for leaks.

Spray around your intake manifold and attached components with WD-40 and see if there's any place that revs up. If so, there's your leak. Keep in mind that WD-40 is flammable. If you have a leaky plug wire you can light the WD-40 on fire. It's not threatening, but certainly surprising when you think you're chasing a vacuum leak.
 

JustinJ94FSB

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Vacuum leak. Your engine runs richer when cold, and that will hide a vacuum leak.

Check your EGR system for leaks.

TLDR ==> the EGR was the problem, and this issue is now solved, thanks to everyone on here, and also my father-in-law. That emissions document that was posted here helped a ton, and i appreciate everyones input. somewhat short backstory below. Thanks again everyone!

So i have been keeping the EGR in the back of my mind, not ruling it out, but it wasn't my main focus. Mainly because i had examined it and manipulated the diaphragm and i just wasnt convinced it needed replacing, when i was putting the intake and everything back together.

I was just outside doing my recent morning ritual of testing and messing with things and driving it trying to determine/solve the issue. My father-in-law was outside doing work on the farm, and he asked what i was doing now. I was spraying water on the spark plug wires with a squirt bottle looking to see if any of the wires were bad. I told him the next thing i want to look into is the EGR. He told me its a vacuum actuated EGR on these rigs and what he used to do is take the vacuum hose off of the EGR and shove a Golf Tee in the hose end then drive the truck and see if its any different. Well its safe to say it drives like a brand new truck now. The idle no longer changes when i come to a stop, i dont smell any rotten eggs, it idles perfectly smooth like silk. I am 99.99999% confident the EGR is the problem and i will be ordering a new one today.
 

JustinJ94FSB

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My low hot idle issue was a coolant temp sensor (the ecm one)

this seems to be a very common issue and just last night i decided to test my old ECT sensor using little dishes with diff temps of water in it. I found online a list of the correct OHM readings at various temperatures for this sensor and used it as a guide. I determined that my old ECT was fine. I then took the new one out and put my old one back in the truck, and drove it and the problem was not changed. So when i got back home i tested the new one just for the heck of it, and it was also showing correct OHMs at the various temperatures. So i ruled my ECT out last night.
 

Scooterwrench

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May want to check the EGR control valve,mainly the air bleed. It could be plugged and not allowing the vacuum to bleed off which will hold the EGR open. That can be tested by pulling the vacuum line off the EGR when it starts to act up. If it settles down to a nice idle you've found the culprit.
 
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