Fuel pump replacement

[Supercharged111]

^^^X2 - I have a Spectra Premium distributor in which the ICM failed in less than 2,000 Miles! I'm not impressed with Pertronix Flame Thrower coils either! Glad you got it right

I bought one in 2001 and it worked fine. May not have been Chinesium back then.

 

[thinger2]

Open the gas door, pull the 3 screws that hold the filler neck.
Drop the spare tire.
Disconnect the tail wiring harness and any grounds etc.
Pull the bed bolts all the way out on the drivers side and most of the way on the pass side.
Get a chunk of 2x6 that fits between the frame and the inside of the tire and rests on the spring hangers.
Cut to fit.
Take the factory scissor jack and stick it on the 2x6 and tilt it under the bed.
Crank her up.
Stick jackstands or whatever under the bed so it doesnt drop on your neck and kill you.
If you pull the pass side bolts to get more room.
Put a couple of ratchet straps from the drivers side frame to the far side bed brackets or it will slide off the jack and hit the back of the cab and the bumper.
Get a new fuel pump lock ring.
They are 5 bucks at NAPA
By the time you get the old one off it will be pretty mangled up and not worth the fight to put it back on.
Clean the hell out of the lock ring amd the area around it before you open it up.
You dont want that crap falling into the fuel tank.
The factory GM goop used to seal the lock ring seems to be impossible to find.
I use toilet bowl wax. works great
Clean up all the wiring and grounds before you drop it back down.
Put some anti seize on the bed bolts when you put them back in.
The hardest part of the whole process is getting the bed bolts loose.
Ive done this in the middle of the night on a mountain in no friggen where and it worked just fine

 

[Steven Petersen]

Open the gas door, pull the 3 screws that hold the filler neck.
Drop the spare tire.
Disconnect the tail wiring harness and any grounds etc.
Pull the bed bolts all the way out on the drivers side and most of the way on the pass side.
Get a chunk of 2x6 that fits between the frame and the inside of the tire and rests on the spring hangers.
Cut to fit.
Take the factory scissor jack and stick it on the 2x6 and tilt it under the bed.
Crank her up.
Stick jackstands or whatever under the bed so it doesnt drop on your neck and kill you.
If you pull the pass side bolts to get more room.
Put a couple of ratchet straps from the drivers side frame to the far side bed brackets or it will slide off the jack and hit the back of the cab and the bumper.
Get a new fuel pump lock ring.
They are 5 bucks at NAPA
By the time you get the old one off it will be pretty mangled up and not worth the fight to put it back on.
Clean the hell out of the lock ring amd the area around it before you open it up.
You dont want that crap falling into the fuel tank.
The factory GM goop used to seal the lock ring seems to be impossible to find.
I use toilet bowl wax. works great
Clean up all the wiring and grounds before you drop it back down.
Put some anti seize on the bed bolts when you put them back in.
The hardest part of the whole process is getting the bed bolts loose.
Ive done this in the middle of the night on a mountain in no friggen where and it worked just fine

One thing I’ll add is I had to remove the tailgate. After lifting a ways it started hitting the plastic bumper cover. What I did was I lifted slowly. I had 1 daughter watching for hitting/clearance. I had a 2nd daughter stick the jack stand in position when it was time. I can tell you the clearance between the body and bumper on the right side could be measured with a feeler gauge. It’s as if GM designed things to allow for the bed tilt.

 

[Supercharged111]

I've had the tank out of a 400 at least 6 times in the last couple years. Dropped it every time, even a couple instances with a full tank.

 

[Steven Petersen]

Just an FYI. I was going to toss the old pump even though it still worked. Turns out it is a Carter brand with made in USA stamped on it.