HotWheelsBurban
Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Yup me too. My Dad would be 80 in January if he was still living. I'm 56. So been learning about cars and trucks for a while now....
Frame resonance.
- Thread starter Pinger
- Start date
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Hipster
I'm Awesome
I quit counting. I'm 50 something-ish. I think. lol
Have you checked for a binding u-joint?
I have had so many 19th birthdays, I don't think I am ever going to turn 20. Even my kids are older than me. But who really wants to grow up?
At max inflation with max load the tire profile ( sidewall ) and tire footprint ( contact surface ) are even at the designed aspect . Excessive flexing of sidewall leads to friction generating heat potential blowout dangerous handling symptoms. ( Under inflation ) When you run at max inflation without a substantial load the enter line of the tire tread begins to " crown" , causing excessive wear in center. As you said " wear in center of tires".
Tire pressures are a balancing act for vehicles that are a mid weight vehicle, but have the potential for high load capacity. The best process is my matching tire pressures to vehicle given conditions.
Tire pressures are a balancing act for vehicles that are a mid weight vehicle, but have the potential for high load capacity. The best process is my matching tire pressures to vehicle given conditions.
When I was a kid, Jack Benny got lotsa laughs claiming he was "39". I didn't understand. 39 was fookin' ancient. NOW, I understand.
I don't know anything about NVH from "chassis beaming". That's all-new to me.
When the transfer case mount wore-out on my K1500, there was substantial vibration. When the rear U-joint on my Trailblazer went bad, there was massive vibration from 68 to 78 mph. Seemingly smooth below 68 or at 80+. In fact, when that got fixed, the Trailblazer was smoother everywhere, including speeds I didn't realize had a problem.
You cannot grab a driveshaft and determine the condition of the U-joints unless they're so unbelievably wiped-out that they're hazardous. The shaft needs to come down so the joints can be manipulated by hand, and preferably have the caps pulled off for inspection.
I've never seen tire rotation cause a vibration unless the tires were defective to begin with--cupped, for example, or out-of-balance and moved from rear to front.
A bent wheel would be more-likely to vibrate on the front, but I'd also expect to feel that in the steering wheel. A very-slightly bent wheel, paired up with a slightly bent axle shaft or hub...maybe the combination causes problems where either one separately doesn't.
The early days of radial tires in America (at least a decade after they made waves in Europe) had the tires rotated front-to-rear only. That changed later, and hasn't been a "thing" for decades. I remember taking (blackwall) radial tires off the wheels, flipping 'em around, remounting the tires on the wheels, and installing them on the other side of the car, 'cause we JUST KNEW that the tire had to rotate the same direction. Wasn't long after that that the major tire companies started allowing side-to-side rotation.
There is such a thing as "road force" balancing that attempts to counteract sidewall-stiffness variation where the cords overlap; but that's more of a problem with low-profile sports-car tires than trucks.
I don't know anything about NVH from "chassis beaming". That's all-new to me.
When the transfer case mount wore-out on my K1500, there was substantial vibration. When the rear U-joint on my Trailblazer went bad, there was massive vibration from 68 to 78 mph. Seemingly smooth below 68 or at 80+. In fact, when that got fixed, the Trailblazer was smoother everywhere, including speeds I didn't realize had a problem.
You cannot grab a driveshaft and determine the condition of the U-joints unless they're so unbelievably wiped-out that they're hazardous. The shaft needs to come down so the joints can be manipulated by hand, and preferably have the caps pulled off for inspection.
I've never seen tire rotation cause a vibration unless the tires were defective to begin with--cupped, for example, or out-of-balance and moved from rear to front.
A bent wheel would be more-likely to vibrate on the front, but I'd also expect to feel that in the steering wheel. A very-slightly bent wheel, paired up with a slightly bent axle shaft or hub...maybe the combination causes problems where either one separately doesn't.
The early days of radial tires in America (at least a decade after they made waves in Europe) had the tires rotated front-to-rear only. That changed later, and hasn't been a "thing" for decades. I remember taking (blackwall) radial tires off the wheels, flipping 'em around, remounting the tires on the wheels, and installing them on the other side of the car, 'cause we JUST KNEW that the tire had to rotate the same direction. Wasn't long after that that the major tire companies started allowing side-to-side rotation.
There is such a thing as "road force" balancing that attempts to counteract sidewall-stiffness variation where the cords overlap; but that's more of a problem with low-profile sports-car tires than trucks.
Quick word on some of the posts.
Not a diff issue - was in there last year. Fresh fluid and bearings all good. New front bearings (all greased and set up properly) when new rotors were fitted (C model).
Almost certain not a wheel or wheel balance issue. Nothing can be felt through the steering wheel or any other contact point. It's more a drumming that is throughout the vehicle that is audible. Tyres were bought new and they've never had any impact that could damage them.
Which brings it back to propshaft (truck has only done 49,000 miles and has had an easy life - never towed), tyre rotation, tyre pressures - all of which I'll dig into later.
The suddenness with which this has appeared points to something having recently changed. Underseal on propshaft, tyre rotation/pressure change are prime suspects.
Not a diff issue - was in there last year. Fresh fluid and bearings all good. New front bearings (all greased and set up properly) when new rotors were fitted (C model).
Almost certain not a wheel or wheel balance issue. Nothing can be felt through the steering wheel or any other contact point. It's more a drumming that is throughout the vehicle that is audible. Tyres were bought new and they've never had any impact that could damage them.
Which brings it back to propshaft (truck has only done 49,000 miles and has had an easy life - never towed), tyre rotation, tyre pressures - all of which I'll dig into later.
The suddenness with which this has appeared points to something having recently changed. Underseal on propshaft, tyre rotation/pressure change are prime suspects.
I'm with you brother. Growing old is mandatory,growing up is voluntary!!!
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