Engine Driven Compressor info

[bow61509]

Well im not just gonna try it lol.. I dont mean something hacked together but ive been looking all over the web and found several pics of people using a little adapter type deal that screws onto the york like im refering to and then the other end accepts a fitting that makes it a female npt that works with hydrualic hose. And all can be had at the local parts store for way cheaper than 60 bucks. I just cant bring myself to pay 60 bucks for two little fitting when the compressor wont even cost that much give me a few minutes and ill post some pics of the setup im reffering to.

 

[addiction2bass]

well go for it.... but hell i couldnt even find the same thread for the oil fill bolt at my lowes

 

[bow61509]

What I really need to know is about the plumbing to the tank, I know I need the leader hose but how long does it need to be? And then after lets say five foot of hydrualic hose can I go into 1/2" standard air line the rest of the way back to the tank? Or what are some other options, the plumbing to the tank is the most confusing to me I understand ill need a pressure switch, check valve, and oil trap and I also understand how it all goes im just confused about getting the air to the tank

 

[sick94]

on my edc i have a 48" leader hose going to the oil trap then i use 3/4 dot plastic hose to the check valve to the tank... you can use 1/2" dot if you want and the check valve is screwed into the tank

 

[bow61509]

Ok so where is the best place for the check valve? Most installs ive researched went like this leader hose, oil trap, check valve, then dot line to the tank. Is that a good way to do it or is there a better way. Im just trying to get most of my ducks in a row because ill be doing mine in the next few weeks. Also any source for a bracket on a tbi 454 or am I on my own with it lol

 

[sick94]

yep that is the best way.. i only put my check valve after the dot cause its huge .. its off a big rig and its also the reason i used 3/4 dot

 

[addiction2bass]

I would put the check valve right onto the tank. I think it's just safer that way if the hose ever got to hot and leak. Same reasons I have check valves on each of the valves inputs. Well I have them split so I only have two currently. Use the cheaper plastic check valves for the valves and the more expensive metal check valve for the leader hose! The heat from the pump would melt the plastic check valves.

 

[bow61509]

I would put the check valve right onto the tank. I think it's just safer that way if the hose ever got to hot and leak. Same reasons I have check valves on each of the valves inputs. Well I have them split so I only have two currently. Use the cheaper plastic check valves for the valves and the more expensive metal check valve for the leader hose! The heat from the pump would melt the plastic check valves.

Where are you putting your oil trap? I know you just put an edc on yours, so far ive got the order as.....
Compressor, leader hose, oil trap, dot line, then check valve at the tank. Sound any good or anything even better?

 

[sick94]

im gona try to link a pic of my setup this was when i 1st set it up .. i since have moved everything to the other side of the truck .. notice the oil trap on the frame rail down there

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[sick94]

here is my current setup i use a vbelt incase it fails i dont take out my other belt . and i also changed to a 3500 psi leader hose i melted the other braided style.. also i made my own fitting adapter using a stock ac fitting and tig welded a -10 an style fitting on to it

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