Delete oil cooler?

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I’m also thinking maybe a 180 thermostat might help

I'm thinking not. As the additional temp is needed to make air/fuel corrections for MPG...

(and as fuel prices are still rising, Buck Foe Jiden, we need all the fuel economy we can get)

reduce Nox, and provide interior heat during the winter months. Oh, and EGR and lockup torque converter function...

 

[Wozny]

If the overall thickness is vastly different, yes. I would assume a thick 4 row would cool better than a narrow single core, but there is no reason to get stuck with a thin radiator that's made with fewer, but wider, rows.

What is the 180F thermostat supposed to help with? 195F has been the designed spec for years and years.

The oil cooler you're trying to eleminate, is it internal, or external?

That’s what I think, if the difference in thickness is a lot.
Doesn’t a 180 thermostat make the engine run cooler, which would be better fir towing? To help compensate for the cooler being gone?
The cooler I’m considering deleting is the one in the radiator for oil. The ne connecting to the lines from the oil filter adapter.

 

[Wozny]

I'm thinking not. As the additional temp is needed to make air/fuel corrections for MPG...

(and as fuel prices are still rising, Buck Foe Jiden, we need all the fuel economy we can get)

reduce Nox, and provide interior heat during the winter months. Oh, and EGR and lockup torque converter function...

I thought about the fuel issue after I posted that. Thanks, I’ll stick with 195

 

[Wozny]

I thought about the fuel issue after I posted that. Thanks, I’ll stick with 195

Now I’m thinking I’ll keep the lines, mine are not the quick disconnect with the plastic covers over clips. No O rings. Looks like AN male flare on the pipe, at the radiator. A ring built into the pipe is the sealer. Is that OEM? The YouTube vids I saw had rusted fittings that required removing the rad hose, these came off with a open end wrench no problem. Haven’t got the ones at the filter yet but they look the same just bigger. All four have brass hex fittings the nuts thread into. 19 mm on rad pipe, 25 mm on the filter. I may just have a leaky adapter gasket

 

[454cid]

Now I’m thinking I’ll keep the lines, mine are not the quick disconnect with the plastic covers over clips. No O rings. Looks like AN male flare on the pipe, at the radiator. A ring built into the pipe is the sealer. Is that OEM? The YouTube vids I saw had rusted fittings that required removing the rad hose, these came off with a open end wrench no problem. Haven’t got the ones at the filter yet but they look the same just bigger. All four have brass hex fittings the nuts thread into. 19 mm on rad pipe, 25 mm on the filter. I may just have a leaky adapter gasket

Mine threaded into the radiator, and used an o-ring over the pipe. The engine side, are quick connects and are a "Jiffy-Tite" product, but googling seems to be just picking up newer looking stuff. The connections at the ends aren't the typical problem. The problem is where the hardlines and hoses are crimped together starts to leak.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

The easy answer on the thermostat is 195 is holding the coolant in the radiator longer to get rid of more heat . All the sensors are set up for 195 so I don't see how 180 could help. If it's getting hot, put a mechanical gauge on it to be sure. then look for the problem.

 

[Wozny]

Mine threaded into the radiator, and used an o-ring over the pipe. The engine side, are quick connects and are a "Jiffy-Tite" product, but googling seems to be just picking up newer looking stuff. The connections at the ends aren't the typical problem. The problem is where the hardlines and hoses are crimped together starts to leak.

I got it all off now, the adapter came with the pipe, the two fittings on the filter adapter are the jiffy type, not OEM as there’s a label with a bar code. haven’t heard mention of the crimp part leaking so that’s good to know. I might put a fitting on the adapter to get rid of the quick disconnect. Saw a vid where a guy used two 3/8 male X 8 AN female fittings on the adapter, flared the tubes with a make 8 AN. Then I’d have all four fittings AN. Why not go tube all the way and eliminate the crimps, just put a AN L fitting where the line turns left under the radiator? It would be easily accessible from underneath. Would need to add some protection, maybe some loom plastic would suffice, or maybe a stainless braid slipped over, or both

 

[Wozny]

The

I got it all off now, the adapter came with the pipe, the two fittings on the filter adapter are the jiffy type, not OEM as there’s a label with a bar code. haven’t heard mention of the crimp part leaking so that’s good to know. I might put a fitting on the adapter to get rid of the quick disconnect. Saw a vid where a guy used two 3/8 male X 8 AN female fittings on the adapter, flared the tubes with a make 8 AN. Then I’d have all four fittings AN. Why not go tube all the way and eliminate the crimps, just put a AN L fitting where the line turns left under the radiator? It would be easily accessible from underneath. Would need to add some protection, maybe some loom plastic would suffice, or maybe a stainless braid slipped over, or both

filter adapter has 3/8 NPT threads so I meant to say “3/8 male NPT X 8 AN female” fitting

 

[454cid]

I got it all off now, the adapter came with the pipe, the two fittings on the filter adapter are the jiffy type, not OEM as there’s a label with a bar code. haven’t heard mention of the crimp part leaking so that’s good to know. I might put a fitting on the adapter to get rid of the quick disconnect. Saw a vid where a guy used two 3/8 male X 8 AN female fittings on the adapter, flared the tubes with a make 8 AN. Then I’d have all four fittings AN. Why not go tube all the way and eliminate the crimps, just put a AN L fitting where the line turns left under the radiator? It would be easily accessible from underneath. Would need to add some protection, maybe some loom plastic would suffice, or maybe a stainless braid slipped over, or both

I think you're way over thinking this, given that you're not even sure what's leaking. The quick connect Jiffy-Tite fittings are not really a problem that I've ever heard. I had no issue with them. I did replace one of them, when I replaced a line just to be sure of no leaks. The replacement had the Jiffy-tite logo on it, just like the original.

Do you mean hose all the way? Tubing would be rigid, and would need to be bent to shape, and it would eventually stress crack because of engine movement.

"Under the radiator"? The lines don't go under the radiator.

 

[Wozny]

Thanks 454, But that’s not what I’ve been reading. Ive been seeing guys aren’t having much luck with the O rings in those juffy connectors. Some say just disturbing them can cause a leak, and suggest replacing the O rings every time you replace the gasket on the adapter. And I’ve seen where brand new adapter gaskets fail, especially Dormans.
Like I said, the leak is either from the adapter gasket or one of it’s fittings. It’s a big leak, a quart every 60 miles. So yeah, I don’t know how xactly but within an inch or two. Yeah the line doesn’t go under the radiator, exactly. Under the fan.
Yes I was thinking soft copper tubing. Yes there’s vibration frim the engine. Seems like there might be some better way. Still don’t know whether to delete them or not. Toss a coin I guess