Delete oil cooler?

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L31MaxExpress

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The easy answer on the thermostat is 195 is holding the coolant in the radiator longer to get rid of more heat . All the sensors are set up for 195 so I don't see how 180 could help. If it's getting hot, put a mechanical gauge on it to be sure. then look for the problem.
Cooler actually helps. PCM is retarding timing by the time the engine hits 193°F and pulls substantially more by the 210°F a 195°F thermostat usually lets them run. The PCM is in closed loop adjusting fuel trims by about 100-120°F and the long term fuel trims come online at about 140°F. I have run a 170°F thermostat for more than a decade in my small block Vortec.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Thanks 454, But that’s not what I’ve been reading. Ive been seeing guys aren’t having much luck with the O rings in those juffy connectors. Some say just disturbing them can cause a leak, and suggest replacing the O rings every time you replace the gasket on the adapter. And I’ve seen where brand new adapter gaskets fail, especially Dormans.
Like I said, the leak is either from the adapter gasket or one of it’s fittings. It’s a big leak, a quart every 60 miles. So yeah, I don’t know how xactly but within an inch or two. Yeah the line doesn’t go under the radiator, exactly. Under the fan.
Yes I was thinking soft copper tubing. Yes there’s vibration frim the engine. Seems like there might be some better way. Still don’t know whether to delete them or not. Toss a coin I guess
I added the cooler and lines to my small block years ago when I replaced the radiator. I replaced my radiator and lines when I put the 383 in. My idle oil pressure came up nearly 10 psi in hot weather with the cooler
 

Supercharged111

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Thanks, very good to know.

See? It's not the devil after all. Just fix what you have with AC Delco lines and a gasket kit for the housing and enjoy what the engineers gave you. It also helps to warm the oil faster in the winter too ya know. Both of my trucks run 180 stats because of what L31MaxExpress said. IATs get dragged along with high ambient and ECT and those pull a lot of timing as well.
 

L31MaxExpress

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See? It's not the devil after all. Just fix what you have with AC Delco lines and a gasket kit for the housing and enjoy what the engineers gave you. It also helps to warm the oil faster in the winter too ya know. Both of my trucks run 180 stats because of what L31MaxExpress said. IATs get dragged along with high ambient and ECT and those pull a lot of timing as well.
I know you tend to run electrics but the cooler operating temps tend to keep the fan clutch from fully engaging as well.
 

Supercharged111

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I know you tend to run electrics but the cooler operating temps tend to keep the fan clutch from fully engaging as well.

I kept mechanical in the dually, but it's the old crappy 5 blade that sucks at idle. I'd really like to get a better mechanical fan in there. My electric outperforms the stock mechanical at idle in the 1500.
 

454cid

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Cooler actually helps. PCM is retarding timing by the time the engine hits 193°F and pulls substantially more by the 210°F a 195°F thermostat usually lets them run.

Mine does not run 210F with the 195 thermostat, as measured by the PCM's sensor. It hangs right in the upper 190's. I've monitored it driving around town with a scanner attached. It will go up, while stopped, but I don't have my fan shroud installed, so that rise in temperature is expected.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Mine does not run 210F with the 195 thermostat, as measured by the PCM's sensor. It hangs right in the upper 190's. I've monitored it driving around town with a scanner attached. It will go up, while stopped, but I don't have my fan shroud installed, so that rise in temperature is expected.
Mine would run 220-230°F and try to get hotter if you did not lift. This was all stock and when it was newer. 5 bladed steel fan sounded like a Cessna at full power.
 
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