Cut spring advice.

Discussion in 'Lowered and Bagged Suspension' started by bustedknuckles, May 21, 2020.

  1. bustedknuckles

    bustedknuckles OBS Enthusiast

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    has anyone ever cut their coils? Any advice on which is better, cut one inch or new springs. Anybody documented the process? I'd like to know the pros and cons. Thanks yall
     
  2. RichLo

    RichLo E I E I O

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    Yea, start with less than you think you'll need and drive it for a few miles to let the suspension settle then check ride height and cut more if needed. Start with 1/4 or 1/2 coil and slowly chop off more as desired

    As for cutting, the less heat introduced the better, a hand powered hacksaw is best but it takes the longest. A reciprocating saw is 2nd best but be sure to wrap the coil with a wet rag to reduce heat. I would not recommend a cutoff wheel and obviously not plasma or torch.
     
  3. Pinger

    Pinger I'm Awesome

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    I've done this on a W123 Mercedes.
    You can estimate how much to cut by counting how much of each coil (assuming cutting no more than one coil off) represents the reduction in ride height you want. Do this with the wheels on the ground, spring loaded.
    This is only viable on a spring with a loose tang - not when it is tapered/ground.
    I cut mine with a cutting disc - the heat doesn't go far and steel has to be at red heat to change its characteristics.
    Shortening a spring stiffens it by the same percentage as the shortening.
     
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  4. TheAutumnWind

    TheAutumnWind I'm Awesome

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    1 cut coil is the most you should go. I believe that is good for approx 3" drop.
     
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  5. sewlow

    sewlow Bitchin' Stitchin'

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    1 coil = 2".
    From general consensus & personal experience.
     
  6. bustedknuckles

    bustedknuckles OBS Enthusiast

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    I have already installed shackles so I think that gave me about two inches in the rear. I believe I'm going to do the hangers next for 2 more, so a total of 4 in the rear. From what I've read i believe theyre is a 3 inch difference in height from front to back. Is this correct? So I was thinking a 1 inch in front would bring me level. What would such is it not being enough in the front and having to either do it over or do 2 inch spindles for 3 . in front. Then would 4 inches be enough in back? I'm thinking 1-2 in the front and 4 total in back. I currently running 235 75 15 all the way around. Just trying to get rid of the gaps between wells and tires. Those of you who have a 2/4 drop, is the truck still usable as a truck? I just don't want to cut the springs and rear hangers and ruin the ability to haul stuff if I need to.
     
  7. Rick Reid

    Rick Reid Newbie

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    I cut some springs once, swore I'd never do it again !
     
  8. bustedknuckles

    bustedknuckles OBS Enthusiast

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    Why not?
     
  9. sewlow

    sewlow Bitchin' Stitchin'

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    2/4 on 17's with 275/55-17's. Spindles/hangars/shackles. I went with spindles so if I decided to go lower it'd be just a matter of cutting the springs 1 coil.
    That decision was made 10 minutes after the truck was off the hoist after doing the 2/4.
    Still useable as a truck. Yes, it still has a rake.
    A 3" difference Fr>Rr is what these trucks need to ride level but to go to a 5" drop to level it requires a diff flip & a 1" lift shackle. If (more than likely...when.) I was to do that, F* it, the truck is going down to 4/7.
    I'll never do another 2/4.
    For one. It's just not low enough. ...and two, getting the pinion angle right on the 2/4 was a PitA. Think I pulled the rear suspension apart 4 or 5X getting that right. The install of the 4/6 on my '98 was a cakewalk in comparison.

    download 1.png

    My '98 @ 4/7. (Sig pic is when it was @ 4/6.) My daily for about 10 years at that height & yes, I used it as a truck. The shop truck.
    Still...it's a short box 2 wheel drive. How much can they really carry to begin with? The truck is, in reality, a car with a big trunk.
    I went from a square body 8600gvw Camper Special to this. The square was A TRUCK! These RCSBs only have about 1/3 the carrying capacity.
    The most I've carried in the '98 was 2 complete '50's GM car interiors. The front seats alone weigh in around 200lbs. each. Figured I was pushing 800lbs for the whole load, if not more. Truck squatted a bit but still managed no problem. I wouldn't want to do that all the time though. Not unless I had some helper bags installed.

    Field truck 2.jpg
     
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  10. bustedknuckles

    bustedknuckles OBS Enthusiast

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    Th!nks for the info. The ability to haul light loads at a lower drop was my concern. Really i mostly pull a 8 ft. Trailer with my mower to my mother's about every 10 day. I have hauled about 2100lb of rock with mine but those days are gone. Im finished up with all the heavy hauling now. I was getting ready to start the drop until my transmission started letting go. I finished the rebuild on it so I'm ready to start the drop again. So the first pic is a 4/6 now 7?? That was achieved doing a flip and 1 in shackles? The front at 4 inch was 2 inch spindles and 2 inch springs? Any suggestions on parts suppliers. I think I've read that certain spindles set the fronts out about 3/4 inch, I don't really want that. I already have a set of notch plates for the rear frame so I just need the flip kit, upper and lower shock mounts to correct the shock angle and of course 4 new badly needed shocks. Again, any suggestions on front springs and spindles? Thanks for all the help.
     
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