Cut spring advice.

[TheAutumnWind]

Why not?

Cut too much, and/or heat the springs, and you are in for a bad time.

The more you cut the stiffer the spring will be.

 

[sewlow]

Th!nks for the info. The ability to haul light loads at a lower drop was my concern. Really i mostly pull a 8 ft. Trailer with my mower to my mother's about every 10 day. I have hauled about 2100lb of rock with mine but those days are gone. Im finished up with all the heavy hauling now. I was getting ready to start the drop until my transmission started letting go. I finished the rebuild on it so I'm ready to start the drop again. So the first pic is a 4/6 now 7?? That was achieved doing a flip and 1 in shackles? The front at 4 inch was 2 inch spindles and 2 inch springs? Any suggestions on parts suppliers. I think I've read that certain spindles set the fronts out about 3/4 inch, I don't really want that. I already have a set of notch plates for the rear frame so I just need the flip kit, upper and lower shock mounts to correct the shock angle and of course 4 new badly needed shocks. Again, any suggestions on front springs and spindles? Thanks for all the help.

The blue '97 is a 2/4.
Big pic of my '98 ia @ 4/7. Sig pic is 4/6.
BellTech & their derivitives (CMS, McGaughys + others) push the front track out about 3/4" on each side. DJM spindles don't.
I had 2" lowering springs on my '98, but found that they were too soft for what I use the truck for. Lowering springs, while looking more substantial than the stockers, mimic the way-too-soft-for-my-needs stock ride characteristics.
I prefer a cut coil's ride.
Yes on the 7" drop. Flip + a lowering shackle @ the first set of holes.
But...the rear suspension under the '98 is no longer a kit. All custom-fabbed. I just didn't like the way the diff was mounted. With the plan of some serious power being dropped in the truck, I was just a bit leary of that mounting system. Visions of the diff rotating within the mounts. Other's have gotten away with the kit mounts & big power, but if there's weak spot in a drive-line, I will find it! Lol!
Only remaining part of the original kit I had in there is the lower shock extensions. ...and even those have been modded by being welded & smoothed.
Don't forget to notch the box crossmember when doing a 4/6.
Notice how we relocated the brakeline. Turned the junction block around to face the rear so that the single line has a straight shot to the block instead of it snaking forward and around & maybe having a chance of getting pinched.
Shocks? I've killed them all! The only ones I like so far are the BellTech Street Performers. Best ones yet, short of spending $1500.00cdn for a set of double adjustable QA1's or slightly less (!) for a set of comparable Vikings.

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This how we re-did the diff mounts along with the custom notch. (Boxed on the inside)

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That lower spring I had made to replace the overload. Didn't work right so the overload was replaced since the pic.

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The welded extenders with a custom made sway mount.

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Sway bar frame mounts.

 

[bustedknuckles]

The blue '97 is a 2/4.
Big pic of my '98 ia @ 4/7. Sig pic is 4/6.
BellTech & their derivitives (CMS, McGaughys + others) push the front track out about 3/4" on each side. DJM spindles don't.
I had 2" lowering springs on my '98, but found that they were too soft for what I use the truck for. Lowering springs, while looking more substantial than the stockers, mimic the way-too-soft-for-my-needs stock ride characteristics.
I prefer a cut coil's ride.
Yes on the 7" drop. Flip + a lowering shackle @ the first set of holes.
But...the rear suspension under the '98 is no longer a kit. All custom-fabbed. I just didn't like the way the diff was mounted. With the plan of some serious power being dropped in the truck, I was just a bit leary of that mounting system. Visions of the diff rotating within the mounts. Other's have gotten away with the kit mounts & big power, but if there's weak spot in a drive-line, I will find it! Lol!
Only remaining part of the original kit I had in there is the lower shock extensions. ...and even those have been modded by being welded & smoothed.
Don't forget to notch the box crossmember when doing a 4/6.
Notice how we relocated the brakeline. Turned the junction block around to face the rear so that the single line has a straight shot to the block instead of it snaking forward and around & maybe having a chance of getting pinched.
Shocks? I've killed them all! The only ones I like so far are the BellTech Street Performers. Best ones yet, short of spending $1500.00cdn for a set of double adjustable QA1's or slightly less (!) for a set of comparable Vikings.

You must be registered for see images attach

This how we re-did the diff mounts along with the custom notch. (Boxed on the inside)

You must be registered for see images attach

That lower spring I had made to replace the overload. Didn't work right so the overload was replaced since the pic.

You must be registered for see images attach

The welded extenders with a custom made sway mount.

You must be registered for see images attach

Sway bar frame mounts.

So I should be safe cutting the springs 2 inches? Long wit DJM 2 inch spindles. The rear i believe ive pretty much got the idea on it. Thanks for all the advice. Looks like I'm going with the 4/6 drop. Any way you could give me the specs on the 4/7 drop wheel and tire combo. Right now I'm running 7 inch ralleys with 235-75/15 all the way around. Being on a budget ill have to save for the wheels and tires so I want to make very sure I order the correct size, backspacing offset and whatever else. That wheel stuff really throws my mind into orbit. I'd like to see some more pics of the truck if you wouldn't mind. Again thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. And I'm sure I will have some more as I go along. Thanks again to everybody.

 

[sewlow]

You'll be fine as long as you do not cut more than one coil.

Any way you could give me the specs on the 4/7 drop wheel and tire combo.

This is 4/6 with SS/Sport wheels & 275/60-15's. SS wheels are 7" wide.
Front fender lips rolled & LCAs clearanced. 4/7 would be no prob.

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I want to make very sure I order the correct size, backspacing offset and whatever else. That wheel stuff really throws my mind into orbit.

Yup! Me too! I have no clue. When I ordered the 20" tires & wheels, I told the salesman what I had, what had been done to it & what I wanted. He handled the rest. Wish I could help you out more on that.
SD Wheels. Also known as Steve's Discount Wheels.
https://www.sdwheel.com/sd/story.php
Ordered them on a Monday & they were delivered to my door, mounted & balanced including lug nuts & wheel locks, the following Tueasday. Across the continent & a border! $1800.00cdn. (Canuck Bucks = $0.75 US) That included shipping, border fees & taxes. Little more than 1/2 the price the local tire shops wanted for the same set-up.

The 20's = 20x8.5's & 20x10's.
255/45's & 295/40's.