Brakes for towing

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Should I look into a conversion for the hydro or is that opening a can of worms?

Pulling a 5500# load on a trailer w/ brakes, the existing vacuum assist should be acceptable. Get the existing brake system up to s n u f f first, and consider the hydroboost as an option that can be added afterwards.

Note that most hydroboost systems have a power steering cooler in front of the radiator, in addition to those items earlier mentioned (pedal assy, etc.). Add that to the shopping list.

Here’s a recent thread on hydroboost, the better part starts at this post and after:

Post in thread 'Hydro boost set-up needed'
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/hydro-boost-set-up-needed.58193/post-1242405

I and others ( @Schurkey IIRC ) have stated that braided stainless hoses both front and rear offered a noteable improvement in pedal feel / responsiveness. It’s another upgrade path to consider if / when you start replacing parts, in addition to those options mentioned earlier.

 

[AuroraGirl]

We have a 1988 5.7 SRW K3500 with vacuum assist…

…and a 1998 5.7 K2500 w/ hydroboost. This truck was bought used; original owner had a 5th-wheel hitch on it so I assume he may have optioned it with hydroboost, perhaps as part of an HD or trailering package.

to be fair GM was pretty skimp on hydroboost for some years.. the biggest examples in square body time being crew cabs, diesels, althoguh the later years they were less stingy lol

 

[stutaeng]

On the late GMT400 2500 (96-00), only the BBC/diesel got hydroboost. Except for government-spec trucks may have been different.

However, that's not true on the early GMT 400 trucks. In fact, even some 3500s had vacuum (even w/ the BBC.)

That's why I asked OP if he has hydroboost and it does look like OP has vacuum, so this is consistent with what I've seen...

 

[L31MaxExpress]

On the late GMT400 2500 (96-00), only the BBC/diesel got hydroboost. Except for government-spec trucks may have been different.

However, that's not true on the early GMT 400 trucks. In fact, even some 3500s had vacuum (even w/ the BBC.)

That's why I asked OP if he has hydroboost and it does look like OP has vacuum, so this is consistent with what I've seen...

I remember driving an Astro van with hydroboost, loved the way it worked and swapping my G20 van shortly after.

That Astro van was also my first experience with a parallel flow condenser upgrade. I was skeptical before I put that condenser on because it was 1/2 the thickenss of the stock one but it worked and it worked extremely well.

 

[packer0440]

Not 100%, but I think pretty much all diesels have hydroboost in GMT400s (due to low vacuum signal of diesels). Very early models (88-91) I believe only duallies and diesels had it. My 90 K3500 454 has vacuum assist. Eventually, around 92 or so all 3500s got hydroboost, then somewhere along the line they started sneaking into the 2500s, probably with big blocks and diesels only though.

 

[92k2500454]

Pulling a 5500# load on a trailer w/ brakes, the existing vacuum assist should be acceptable. Get the existing brake system up to s n u f f first, and consider the hydroboost as an option that can be added afterwards.

Note that most hydroboost systems have a power steering cooler in front of the radiator, in addition to those items earlier mentioned (pedal assy, etc.). Add that to the shopping list.

Here’s a recent thread on hydroboost, the better part starts at this post and after:

Post in thread 'Hydro boost set-up needed'
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/hydro-boost-set-up-needed.58193/post-1242405

I and others ( @Schurkey IIRC ) have stated that braided stainless hoses both front and rear offered a noteable improvement in pedal feel / responsiveness. It’s another upgrade path to consider if / when you start replacing parts, in addition to those options mentioned earlier.

I was looking at the hydro boost but I think it’s a little out of my price range for everything ( around $1000)?

I was speaking to someone at work and they said they added a vacuum canister for extra pressure and it was cheaper.. would that be sufficient ? Seems easy to install?

 

[stutaeng]

$1,000 for hydroboost setup?

Get the hydroboost parts from the junkyard. I think it's just the hydroboost valve/brake pedal assembly and additional PS lines? You can tee into one of the return lines of your power steering pump so you don't have to replace that.

There's write ups here on guys that have done it.

 

[92k2500454]

$1,000 for hydroboost setup?

Get the hydroboost parts from the junkyard. I think it's just the hydroboost valve/brake pedal assembly and additional PS lines? You can tee into one of the return lines of your power steering pump so you don't have to replace that.

There's write ups here on guys that have done it.

I’m going to look at the junkyard but last time I went they didn’t have much.

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Would this help me ?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

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Would this help me ?

I wouldn't expect it to help, as your engine isn't notorious for having low vacuum (unless you're prone to apply the brakes repeatedly while at wide-open-throttle).

That's more of a product targeting engines with low idle vacuum (e.g., long duration camshafts).

However, it reminds me: You should check the condition of the vacuum hose running from the intake to the brake booster's vacuum canister... I don't think this has been mentioned earlier. Although I don't expect it's bad, take a look for cracks or other deterioration, particularly where it's been stretched around the male fittings. If it needs replacement, you'll have to get a hose rated specifically for vacuum and not just any old automotive hose.

Too, check the vacuum check valve and rubber grommet on the booster. It should hold vacuum long after the engine's been shut-off... indeed, if you remove it from the booster (which is usually pretty difficult, as the rubber seal / grommet is usually good at its job), you should hear a "whooosh" of air rush into the vacuum canister indicating it's doing it's job of sealing the canister from outside air.

 

[92k2500454]

I wouldn't expect it to help, as your engine isn't notorious for having low vacuum (unless you're prone to apply the brakes repeatedly while at wide-open-throttle).

That's more of a product targeting engines with low idle vacuum (e.g., long duration camshafts).

However, it reminds me: You should check the condition of the vacuum hose running from the intake to the brake booster's vacuum canister... I don't think this has been mentioned earlier. Although I don't expect it's bad, take a look for cracks or other deterioration, particularly where it's been stretched around the male fittings. If it needs replacement, you'll have to get a hose rated specifically for vacuum and not just any old automotive hose.

Too, check the vacuum check valve and rubber grommet on the booster. It should hold vacuum long after the engine's been shut-off... indeed, if you remove it from the booster (which is usually pretty difficult, as the rubber seal / grommet is usually good at its job), you should hear a "whooosh" of air rush into the vacuum canister indicating it's doing it's job of sealing the canister from outside air.

Awesome thanks for the info i will check that out! Appreciate you guys!