Can a Th700r4 be used for towing?

[Supercharged111]

6 lug 2500 isn't out of its element at 7500#, that's about as much as GM ever rated them to with a 4.10. problem is gonna be 190hp trying to pull a house on wheels down the road which I feel most are glossing right over. And the trans. Assuming it even has a 5th wheel hitch.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

problem is gonna be 190hp trying to pull a house on wheels down the road which I feel most are glossing right over. And the trans. Assuming it even has a 5th wheel hitch.

^^^ this

Shoving that much air out of the way at road speed is going to tax that truck.

Accelerating the 7500# isn't the bigger problem; the problem is shoving the air out of the way.

If your 5th wheel trailer was a lowboy flatbed, then life would be better b/c of the lower air profile.

 

[Xombi]

If you are borrowing a truck strange to you with electric brake controls make sure that they are compatible with what you are towing. That your tow vehicle has been serviced. That it will pass a DOT check. And that it and the controller works. If you lack the skill set to do this find someone who does. The unit that you are towing has to have legal lights, tires, wheels and brakes. On units that have been sitting jack up axles and spin wheels, listen to the bearings, and have someone apply the brakes. Sometimes only one axle will have brakes. If all that is good hook up and do a light and safety check. Write it down. You get stopped and you have evidence of a safety check. You may have to deal with underinflated flat spotted tires. Tires that were allowed to deflate are suspect so a spare would be a good idea. If all of the sidewalls are severely cracked you can have multiple blowouts at the same time. Stop after the first few miles and do a second walk around. Some will use a laser temp gauge to check tires and hubs. Stay in the slow lane.
I had a class A CDL for a very long time. At times driving raggedy trucks. I didn't kill anybody, or get anybody killed. That's success.

 

[someotherguy]

6 lug 2500 isn't out of its element at 7500#, that's about as much as GM ever rated them to with a 4.10. problem is gonna be 190hp trying to pull a house on wheels down the road which I feel most are glossing right over. And the trans. Assuming it even has a 5th wheel hitch.

Most 6 lug 2500's I've seen come with 3.73's. 4.10's more common in the 8 lug. Not saying they're all that way, just from the ones I've owned/seen/worked on. So if he's 3.73, I'd agree with you even more that the truck will be taxed to pull that load.

Richard

 

[scornedlotus]

Honestly this whole thing is odd. From 84-90 it is very common to have a 700R4 in a 3/4 ton. It is not very common to see a 6 lug 2500, especially in 88. Pics would save A LOT of this back and forth. First half of the VIN would be super helpful also(without needing to worry about any privacy issues). Picture of the engine bay. Picture of the rear axle from the back showing the cover. Picture of the transmission pan. Done.

7500lbs is a lot of weight. You'll know it's back there for sure. If it's a nice flat road where you don't need to hit any highways.. you'll probably be ok. But it sounds like you aren't very experienced and you have no history in knowing what kind of condition the equipment is in... it's pretty sketchy.

I love the assumption that I'm not experienced in towing anything. I have actually towed quite a lot, I'm not used to however towing a 5th wheel trailer. All the rv's, trailers, and toy haulers I have towed were bumper/frame hitch. All I've really needed to do in these cases for the most part is make sure I have the right hitch and truck that could support it. However I know 5th wheele trailers have different weight distribution, handling abilities and things of this nature. Only reason I'm willing to take on the beast that I am, is from the experience of driving all the other trailers I have towed in the past.
But after going over info with my brother, who has experience in towing things like this and his input. I realized that he was probably right, so I wanted to get others input the label gt4 which is rated at 6-8k pounds. So thank you all who saved me from blowing up my truck, I appreciate all the in put. I have learned though that since I have the 14 bolt pumpkin, I can upgrade the gears from I think like 37 to 41 or something. Which would take it from a 6-8k tow rating to 10k tow rating, ofcourse it will take more then just that one upgrade. There is a possibility to give her more, tow capacity then she is rated at now. But I will take everyone's advice and probably restore her as much as my possibility. Then find an other person who respects the classics to sell her to and finish her restore process.

As for me not posting pics like everyone other person keeps telling me to. It's not that I wouldn't like to. My phone dosnt like doing that type of thing and when I can get it to most of the time they upload super burry for some reason.

 

[scornedlotus]

Most 6 lug 2500's I've seen come with 3.73's. 4.10's more common in the 8 lug. Not saying they're all that way, just from the ones I've owned/seen/worked on. So if he's 3.73, I'd agree with you even more that the truck will be taxed to pull that load.

Richard

Thank you for your input I actually did research into what your saying and my label is gt4 which is the 37s, is there a way after opening the pumpkin to see if the gears have been changed to the 41s?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I can upgrade the gears from I think like 37 to 41 or something. Which would take it from a 6-8k tow rating to 10k tow rating...

I wouldn't assume you can increase the tow rating to that extent, but I've been wrong before. You said you've got 6-lug hubs, so the brakes up front will be the 11.5" rotors and I believe the 11" drums in back. That's not a lot of excess braking capacity; that's the same as on my K1500 Suburban. AFAIK an 8-lug would have 12.5" rotors and 13" drums in the back. Others may comment.

You're suckin' a lot of wind with that trailer, and it's behind a 190HP engine that's not a torque monster 454 or DuraMax.

That's only a 700R4 in the powertrain. If you run with the torque converter unlocked very much of the time (b/c the throttle is so far open the ECU leaves it unlocked for extended intervals) you'll be throwing more heat into it.

is there a way after opening the pumpkin to see if the gears have been changed to the 41s?

Simply raise the rear on one side and turn one wheel, then count the driveshaft revolutions. Driveshaft should turn 8.2x if you have 4.10, 7.46x if 3.73s. That's enough difference to be easily discernable if you don't get distracted. Or, rather, turn the driveshaft and count until the wheel has made one revolution. Use whichever method works better for you.

 

[someotherguy]

You really need more truck for your goals. Sorry

Richard

 

[scornedlotus]

You really need more truck for your goals. Sorry

Richard

I'm aware at this point like I said in my last post I'm not to worried about it my buddy's truck will tow the trailer home. I'm going to restore the silverado as best I can then. Sell it to someone who respects classics and finish the repairs I cant.

 

[scornedlotus]

I wouldn't assume you can increase the tow rating to that extent, but I've been wrong before. You said you've got 6-lug hubs, so the brakes up front will be the 11.5" rotors and I believe the 11" drums in back. That's not a lot of excess braking capacity; that's the same as on my K1500 Suburban. AFAIK an 8-lug would have 12.5" rotors and 13" drums in the back. Others may comment.

You're suckin' a lot of wind with that trailer, and it's behind a 190HP engine that's not a torque monster 454 or DuraMax.

That's only a 700R4 in the powertrain. If you run with the torque converter unlocked very much of the time (b/c the throttle is so far open the ECU leaves it unlocked for extended intervals) you'll be throwing more heat into it.




Simply raise the rear on one side and turn one wheel, then count the driveshaft revolutions. Driveshaft should turn 8.2x if you have 4.10, 7.46x if 3.73s. That's enough difference to be easily discernable if you don't get distracted. Or, rather, turn the driveshaft and count until the wheel has made one revolution. Use whichever method works better for you.

I was just talking g with a buddy the other day who has a one ton gmc/chevy Sierra I believe is what it's registered as, that has a 350 small block 700r4 and dually rear that towed a 12300 pound trailer from Washington to Arizona. This was a year ago now and he still drives the truck today. He said just maintain the truck and it will take care of you. This being said again different back end brakes a lot to take into consideration there. I'm more into just fixing the truck up to the extent that I can and selling it.