Bought my first truck, help

[Darkrider]

33s will fit stock height and will fit on your rims, the more blue that the headlights are cause more fatigue on your eyes, thats why its not suggested to use over 6000k

Yup 33s will clear stock, And before you go looking at leveling keys or lifts like the RCX 2-3" lift kit dont bother, they are just a waste of money considering you can safely crank up to about 1.5" over stock on the stock keys. The rule of thumb is make sure that no more then 2 pleats in the CV boots touch after its cranked.

 

[ridiqls]

Yup 33s will clear stock, And before you go looking at leveling keys or lifts like the RCX 2-3" lift kit dont bother, they are just a waste of money considering you can safely crank up to about 1.5" over stock on the stock keys. The rule of thumb is make sure that no more then 2 pleats in the CV boots touch after its cranked.

Oh really? I'll do a search and look into this.. Does doing this cause more wear or cause any problems or risks? Would I have to put a block in the back and just raise the fronts? (Not sure if that even makes sense, I kind of understand what is proposed)

Will 35s also clear stock too?

 

[Darkrider]

Oh really? I'll do a search and look into this.. Does doing this cause more wear or cause any problems or risks? Would I have to put a block in the back and just raise the fronts? (Not sure if that even makes sense, I kind of understand what is proposed)

Will 35s also clear stock too?

Nope as long as you dont overcrank it....35s....well...that depends on the truck...some can clear them with a crank and block and some cant....

 

[benz88]

35x12.5x17 on NNBS steelies. One of my favorite Stock suspension Trucks here

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[ridiqls]

35x12.5x17 on NNBS steelies. One of my favorite Stock suspension Trucks here

You must be registered for see images attach

Damn that's nice. I'm not sure how it will look on my 1994 Sierra 2500 regular cab..

Nope as long as you dont overcrank it....35s....well...that depends on the truck...some can clear them with a crank and block and some cant....

So I spent a few hours reading stuff and watching youtube videos and tutorials on suspensions and there was a video on the body lift kit on a dodge. Correct me if I understand wrong but what you were suggesting about the stock key, that is actually adjusting the suspension itself to raise and lower it? Is the key a part of the damper/strut?
That is a completely different method than a body lift with blocks right? Such as this one : http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/d...oriesQQBody_Lift_KitQQ20032006QQP6410123.html

I dont understand how those parts can be so expensive, they're just little cylinders, the mark up on those parts must be like 2000%. But with this method, the basic idea is you take a jack and separate the body from the frame and slip in those 3" blocks one by one into each section where there's a bolt. Then you bolt it down with longer bolts and some loctite and you have just raised your body up by 3"?

So if I use 3" blocks to get a body lift and also adjust the stock key by the 1.5" or so, that would theoretically give me 4.5" of "lift" or elevation? I just want to be higher off the ground lol

I was also looking back at my pictures I snapped under the truck today and the rear seems to be a single axle suspensions vs the macpherson's suspension in the front. So how would you adjust the stock key in the back (if at all?). If you can only adjust the front, is it going to be uneven with the front higher than the back (opposite of rake)?

Thank you for all the help.

 

[96k1500]

The torsion keys are under the cab at the end of the torsion bars, the torsion bars run in to the lower control arms, as you tighten the bolts on the keys it twists the torsion bar raising the front, loosening lowers it, completely different than body lift, with a body lift you take all of the body mounts loose, lift the body off of the frame place the blocks between the frame and body amd tighten it back down, there are not keys in the rear, to lift the rear you get lift blocks, 1", 2", or 3" and put the block between the axle and leaf springs and only cranking the front up 1.5" will level the truck, adding a block will usually add some rake

 

[ridiqls]

The torsion keys are under the cab at the end of the torsion bars, the torsion bars run in to the lower control arms, as you tighten the bolts on the keys it twists the torsion bar raising the front, loosening lowers it, completely different than body lift, with a body lift you take all of the body mounts loose, lift the body off of the frame place the blocks between the frame and body amd tighten it back down, there are not keys in the rear, to lift the rear you get lift blocks, 1", 2", or 3" and put the block between the axle and leaf springs

! got it. starting to understand suspensions now a little bit. So am I right in assuming that if i use the key to raise it 1.5" and ALSO get a 3" body lift, I can get a total of 4.5" lift? I guess 1.5" raise with the key in the front, maybe a 3/4" or some small block in the back suspension to make it level, and then do a 3" body lift all around totaling 4.5"?
There is no safety or roll over risk with doing that right because I'm capping the body lift to 3" and the other 1.5 or even 1" is coming directly from the suspension?

 

[96k1500]

Incorrect, rollover risk comes from lifting a vehicle whether it be body lift or suspension lift, this is because you are raising the center of gravity, now dont let this scare you, as long as you drive responsibly and dont try to exceed the speed limits on curves or turn abruptly at high speeds you have nothing to worry about, if your wanting to crank the bars 1.5" i would add a 1" lift block on the back axle and the 3" body lift, with this configuration you can run 35s

 

[SkyHighColorado]

! got it. starting to understand suspensions now a little bit. So am I right in assuming that if i use the key to raise it 1.5" and ALSO get a 3" body lift, I can get a total of 4.5" lift? I guess 1.5" raise with the key in the front, maybe a 3/4" or some small block in the back suspension to make it level, and then do a 3" body lift all around totaling 4.5"?
There is no safety or roll over risk with doing that right because I'm capping the body lift to 3" and the other 1.5 or even 1" is coming directly from the suspension?

yep thats right. I dont have a BL, but im at 6inch lift and its fine, unless you think your an F1 driver. Its all safe, no worries.

 

[ridiqls]

yep thats right. I dont have a BL, but im at 6inch lift and its fine, unless you think your an F1 driver. Its all safe, no worries.

Do you have a 6 inch suspension lift?

Incorrect, rollover risk comes from lifting a vehicle whether it be body lift or suspension lift, this is because you are raising the center of gravity, now dont let this scare you, as long as you drive responsibly and dont try to exceed the speed limits on curves or turn abruptly at high speeds you have nothing to worry about, if your wanting to crank the bars 1.5" i would add a 1" lift block on the back axle and the 3" body lift, with this configuration you can run 35s

Ah sweet thanks. Yeah I guess there's more risk with any lift than without. I guess the only thing that allows suspensions lifts to have an "edge" on against body lifts when it comes to safety and roll over is maybe you can have a greater choice of tires.

The reason I want to go with 35s is because it seriously looks weird when you have a lift and very small tires. (IMO) I dont think 33s are too small so I'll have to weigh the pros and cons.


How did you guys figure out what the total height of the entire wheel would be given the tire specs? For example, 275/60R20 is roughly 32.99 or 33, but this is because I pulled up a chart that said so. It stopped at 33" and doesn't have all the combinations so I don't know what dimensions I would need for 35" height.