Best grit for sanding?

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Mschaffer92

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You can even go as aggressive as 240. It all depends on what coor of paint and it your are doing a 2 stage paint or single stage. If you are doing a single stage i would go with 320. If you are doing a base clear. I would start with depending on how rough the paint is. Either 240 or 320 and then go to 400.

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lkfldredneck

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You can even go as aggressive as 240. It all depends on what coor of paint and it your are doing a 2 stage paint or single stage. If you are doing a single stage i would go with 320. If you are doing a base clear. I would start with depending on how rough the paint is. Either 240 or 320 and then go to 400.

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not doing anything that special, just spraying primer over orig paint. and then im done.
 

Mschaffer92

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If your doing it by hand then yes. If you are using a da sander 320 will still show no scrates


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5spd Z71

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When we did my truck, I dont think I used any less than a 600. Finished the primer with a 1000. Wet sanding the clear was a different story.
 

Mschaffer92

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If you have to put primer surfacer on it definately wet sand eith 600 .It will definately give you a smoother base foe the color and clear.also what alot of hot rodders do is put a couple coats of clear on. Wet sand it then put a few more coats wet sand again then polish.

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Murd450

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For primer , all you need is a good scuff pad . A good wax and grease remover and some white rags . Priest coat should be a dust coat , second a bit heavier , an the third a good wet coat . Don't be afraid of runs in your primer , you can always sand those out . You don't want the prime to dry as it willshow in your paint when your done . The key to a good paint job is in the prep and how you work your primer after its laid down
 

lester622

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If your using filler primer you can use 180 or 320, primer is thick and will fill 80 scratches unless its spray can primer. If its just to make the truck all one color id 320 it and prime it. Just so you know though primer will soak up water if its left in the elements over time and it will start to rust from under it.

When you decide or if you decide to paint it never finish it with anything greater then 400 or it will peel over time. Only time you will see sand scratches in something that was finished in 400 is if there was not enough base sprayed on from the start.
 

Murd450

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If your using filler primer you can use 180 or 320, primer is thick and will fill 80 scratches unless its spray can primer. If its just to make the truck all one color id 320 it and prime it. Just so you know though primer will soak up water if its left in the elements over time and it will start to rust from under it.

When you decide or if you decide to paint it never finish it with anything greater then 400 or it will peel over time. Only time you will see sand scratches in something that was finished in 400 is if there was not enough base sprayed on from the start.


If you prep right your primer won't peal . You don't even need to sand , if all your doing is covering existing paint all you need is red scuff pads . All you have to do is take tha shine off the existing paint and the primer will stick to it .

He is 1/2 right . Most primers are not a sealer , that is the paints job . But if you get a good primer that also doubles as a sealer you should be ok . I suggest goin to your local keystone/LKQ and picking up some key 3 in one primer , it is really good stuff and is an etching primer as well as a sealer .

Again once you scratch the surface it no longer seals , primer is not as hard as paint .

Even with 400 on some colors you will see sand scratches if your work is not done right . There is a filler coat that nasinn offers that goes on between the color and the clear to fill the scratches that some base coats won't hide .

Your base coat should only be 2 coats . It is there just for pigmentation . Yoir clear you can do several coats and can block / and wet sand that for your shine
 

great white

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Well, a lot depends on what type and how the primer is going to be applied:

Rattle cans - sand 320, scuff pads for odd and difficult spots. Definitely needs top coat to seal as they're almost exclusively enamel based and permeable.

High build/self etch and hvlp- i prefer sanding with 320 for lots of tooth myself, but scuff pads can do an acceptable job. Top coat afterwards.

I've yet to see a primer that is not permeable, but I've been out of the paint and body circles for several years now so lord knows what they've come up with these days.

I'm still kind of blown away they have water born base clear now....
 
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