Best grit for sanding?

[///RAGMC]

To keep it simple, sand with 320 if you're gonna spray primer. Sand with 600 when you're gonna spray your base coat and make sure you dont have any shiny spots. As for the other guys, I've painted for a few years now and most of the time I spray more than 2 coats of base, depending on the color I'm spraying and what color I'm spraying it over..

This x2 I used to paint all my own stuff and thats what i found to work the best

 

[94Sierra4x4]

So let's say I've got a truck with peeling clear coat
Sand whole truck with 320 with a DA sander?
Clean it off, spray a couple coats of primer, dry a bit between coats etc
Sand with 600 with a DA after the primer, wash clean degrease etc etc, then paint er?

Or should I be adding a couple extra steps... I'm not going to have a show truck paint job that's for sure, just want to make it one true color. Not 3 shades of green and 4 shades of rust

 

[michael hurd]

If you have a truck with peeling clear, the clear was applied while the basecoat was too wet, it didn't have proper flash time for the solvents to leave. The quickly drying clearcoat film locks in solvents that were still trying to leave the basecoat. Once there is a stone chip or mark in the paint down to the base, the trapped solvent evaporates leaving space in between the basecoat and the clear, resulting in peeling.

IF you are lucky, you can strip most of the clear off with a single edge razor blade and a real good blow nozzle. Direct the nozzle at the edges of the clear where it has peeled trying to lift it. Sometimes you can just use a razor alone.

If you have stubborn sections, the fastest way to remove it would be with P180 grit on an orbital, then re-prime the areas, or sand to P400 and apply a sealer before painting.

 

[94Sierra4x4]

If you have a truck with peeling clear, the clear was applied while the basecoat was too wet, it didn't have proper flash time for the solvents to leave. The quickly drying clearcoat film locks in solvents that were still trying to leave the basecoat. Once there is a stone chip or mark in the paint down to the base, the trapped solvent evaporates leaving space in between the basecoat and the clear, resulting in peeling.

IF you are lucky, you can strip most of the clear off with a single edge razor blade and a real good blow nozzle. Direct the nozzle at the edges of the clear where it has peeled trying to lift it. Sometimes you can just use a razor alone.

If you have stubborn sections, the fastest way to remove it would be with P180 grit on an orbital, then re-prime the areas, or sand to P400 and apply a sealer before painting.

Wow that was quite the explanation, thanks haha, I never really knew.

So if I use a 180 grit on an orbital I'll need to primer it
But if I start with 180 and go to 400, I can just apply a sealer, then paint over? No prime?

 

[AA13]

No matter what you do I'd primer it. You have to make sure all of that clear is off cuz its bad. I can tell you from past experience it a *****! I repainted a hood that had that problem and damn near had to go down to bare metal on it.

 

[AA13]

This x2 I used to paint all my own stuff and thats what i found to work the best

Its what works lol Fast and easy